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Routes in 15: Pseudo Hawk's Nest
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ABM TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bagatelle T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Beginner's Delight T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Beginners Demise TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Delight T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Chicken Tonight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Couch of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cracking Up T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Death & Disfiguration T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Death and Transfiguration T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Degrade My Sister T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drunken Sailor TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Epiphany T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fakir, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fallen Birch T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Full Moon Over Baraboo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heroes Fright T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Immaculate Conception TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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October First T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Phlogiston T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Pretzel, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prime Rib T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pseudo Skyline T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Sofa-Isticated-Lady T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tharsis TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waxing Moon TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wild Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,743 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Aug 14, 2008 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
This route has three distinct sections, and a number of variations.
The lower section is a strenuous layback. Take this up to the shallow alcove (similar to the alcove on "Chicago"). From here, launch up using face holds until you can sink your hands in horizontal crack. This may look dubious on sight, but the holds are there (like "Brinton's Direct") and there is even some gear. For the final 6-8 feet, move left. The top-out on the ledge is always dirty.
You could continue to the top of the bluff (5.7 or 5.8 I think), but most people stop here and walk off to the side toward the Leaning Tower gully.
Variations: for the lowest part, you can TR on or just to the left of the rib's arete - it wouldn't make a great lead. At the top, instead of moving left you can struggle straight up through the last alcove, making this a 5.10 - this has good gear.
The lower section is a strenuous layback. Take this up to the shallow alcove (similar to the alcove on "Chicago"). From here, launch up using face holds until you can sink your hands in horizontal crack. This may look dubious on sight, but the holds are there (like "Brinton's Direct") and there is even some gear. For the final 6-8 feet, move left. The top-out on the ledge is always dirty.
You could continue to the top of the bluff (5.7 or 5.8 I think), but most people stop here and walk off to the side toward the Leaning Tower gully.
Variations: for the lowest part, you can TR on or just to the left of the rib's arete - it wouldn't make a great lead. At the top, instead of moving left you can struggle straight up through the last alcove, making this a 5.10 - this has good gear.
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