worst anchors ever....
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In a canyon, I once rapped off a sling carefully spread over a one inch vertical sandstone edge. Friction was the only thing holding it from falling and friction was the only thing keeping it from sliding off sideways too. |
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I was climbing once on Katahdin in Maine. I did a full ropelength traverse left across a 50 degree snowfield, with a bottomed out knifeblade halfway across. When I reached the end of the rope, I told my partner we should simulclimb since there was no anchor anywhere near me. I didn't have pickets. He said that he would PREFER a belay. I said fine, but that it wouldn't hold a fall so DON'T. I stomped out a seat and hip belayed him over to me. It would have held a good sneeze, but not a traversing slide with 100 feet of rope out. |
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Crag Dweller wrote: Actually, it appears to be growing out from under a little flake. But, I noticed after I posted my comment that the 'biners can't be removed from the rap ring. I'd be short a couple of slings after rapping off this thing, that's fo sho.I don't read Italian, but it looks like most of those types of setups go at 22-30 kn. But, yeah, they look like paperclips. raumerclimbing.com/ita/prod… |
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Chris Wenker wrote: I don't read Italianhttp://www.raumerclimbing.com/eng/prodotti_clista.asp?cat=stainless_steel_halting_chains_ring_and_chains_topanchors_systems&qi=0-9-0 The English version :-P |
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From the English site: "The fixing of Full Time occurs leading percussion, in fact, a stop absolutely inviolable, durable and safe." |
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Chris Wenker wrote:From the English site: "The fixing of Full Time occurs leading percussion, in fact, a stop absolutely inviolable, durable and safe."Wow ... maybe the Italian is actually easier to understand. |
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On my first alpine lead in the Indian Peaks I set a belay with three nuts and a cam behind a fridge sized block sitting on a 2'X4' ledge (I thought the block was connected to the wall.) |
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John Hegyes wrote:Here's a pic of the old anchor on Hop Route in Red Rock at about 175' up. Someone came along and chopped it so you have to climb a second pitch and do the sketchy walk-off now. That was two years ago, I don't know if the situation has improved.I was on the route about 3 weeks ago and there is now a brand spanking new (and shiny) two bolt anchor at the top of the finger crack that ends the first pitch! We shamelessly clipped in after taking a few huffs from our supplementary O2. A question I've been meaning to ask: On the descent from Hop ROute, we came across a rap anchor that consisted of a 3 inch tree, and a bomber stopper. My reservation was that the stopper had a piece of webbing going through the wire bale. The other end of the webbing had a rap ring attached. I refused to rap of that until we replaced the webbing against the wire with a quick link (a bail 'biner would have been fine too). So does webbing tied directly into the wire of a stopper give you pause? |
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Mike Thompson wrote:so i was reading a different topic on a different forum and i saw a picture of one of the worst anchors i had ever seen. so i decided to get others input :) what is the worst anchor you have ever seen? fixed or placed by your gumby leader that you were horrified to climb up to :) post away! this is the anchor i saw :)I once hung off an anchor that looked just like this one, sans the 'biner, with five other guys, while we rapped off the ring, one by one, and I was the last to go. |
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BrianH wrote:So does webbing tied directly into the wire of a stopper give you pause?I certainly wouldn't lead past it, but in the world of sketchy rappel anchors, I'd feel pretty good about it. I wish we had a picture of it, but a friend and I once rappelled off of a piece of 1" webbing duct-taped to a horn, the top of which was probably 80 degrees from the plane of the rock. He went first and I watched to make sure it didn't shift. It didn't, so I went. If you find the webbing, please return it to me. It was blue, and its in the cascades somewhere with duct tape on it. |
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Who cares? That shit is pimp! |
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Gotta wonder if the sandstone or the star drive will blow first, not real comforting for sure. I wasn't psyched about the star drives on the first pitch of the sun devil chimney. They were 3/8 too with aluminum angle hangers! How long are those things anyway like an inch? |
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tinypic.com/r/2ex68ar/4
Far better than a lot of the ones on here, but I still didn't like it much when I was hanging on it/wedging myself in the crack for dear life. |
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jane-gallwey wrote:http://tinypic.com/r/2ex68ar/4 Far better than a lot of the ones on here, but I still didn't like it much when I was hanging on it/wedging myself in the crack for dear life.That held weight? :) |
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Steve Levin wrote:Climbers have nothing on canyoneers! Here's a "good" anchor in Trail Canyon, Utah, with Steve "Ram" Ramras rappelling.Gotta love Deadman Anchors! They make for a pretty intense rappel. |
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Got some new ones to add from last weekend, these were some pretty good sized raps too! Retrievable! |
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John H., |