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Parallel Universe
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Pino Wall
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Bad Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desert Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dust to Dust T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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License and a Visa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Parallel Universe T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pino Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red Dawn T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 475 ft (144 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mick Schein, John Kear, William Penner August 2009 |
| Page Views: | 2,934 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | John Kear on Sep 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This excellent new route on the Pino Wall sports superb stone and an amazing natural line.
Pitch 1 - Scramble 15 ft up easy terrain to gain the large right facing corner system that is the obvious landmark for this side of the wall. Climb the corner system passing a couple of bulges. At about 100ft you encounter the crux of this pitch leaving the corner system on the left through another bulge. Step around the corner to the left and climb up a few moves to step wildly right around an arete into another shallow right facing corner, climb this narrowing corner past a couple of small ledges to an exciting mantle and the belay anchors. 175ft 5.10c/d
Pitch 2 - A truly amazing pitch. Climb the steep corner above the belay, stemming, lie-backing, and exiting via face moves past a bolt. Rest on the lower angle slab before climbing up to another bolt and cool moves passing a bulge and shallow corner. Continue up a diagonal steep ramp and into a left facing corner to a roof, turn the roof on the right via a finger crack, then climb straight up to the belay. 90ft 5.12a/b
Pitch 3 - Climb straight up off the belay following a crack/seam until it ends, step left to nice cracks just right of corner system. Follow cracks on the face and the right facing corner straight up through a bulge and easier terrain above to a nice belay ledge on the left. 100ft 5.10d
Pitch 4 - Climb straight off the belay aiming for a weakness in the wall above. Climb through nice fins and knobs over the bulge and onto easier terrain above. 3/4 of the way up the pitch you encounter a wild pillar/flake, climb around or over this and continue face climbing to the top of the wall. 100ft 5.8+R
Pitch 1 - Scramble 15 ft up easy terrain to gain the large right facing corner system that is the obvious landmark for this side of the wall. Climb the corner system passing a couple of bulges. At about 100ft you encounter the crux of this pitch leaving the corner system on the left through another bulge. Step around the corner to the left and climb up a few moves to step wildly right around an arete into another shallow right facing corner, climb this narrowing corner past a couple of small ledges to an exciting mantle and the belay anchors. 175ft 5.10c/d
Pitch 2 - A truly amazing pitch. Climb the steep corner above the belay, stemming, lie-backing, and exiting via face moves past a bolt. Rest on the lower angle slab before climbing up to another bolt and cool moves passing a bulge and shallow corner. Continue up a diagonal steep ramp and into a left facing corner to a roof, turn the roof on the right via a finger crack, then climb straight up to the belay. 90ft 5.12a/b
Pitch 3 - Climb straight up off the belay following a crack/seam until it ends, step left to nice cracks just right of corner system. Follow cracks on the face and the right facing corner straight up through a bulge and easier terrain above to a nice belay ledge on the left. 100ft 5.10d
Pitch 4 - Climb straight off the belay aiming for a weakness in the wall above. Climb through nice fins and knobs over the bulge and onto easier terrain above. 3/4 of the way up the pitch you encounter a wild pillar/flake, climb around or over this and continue face climbing to the top of the wall. 100ft 5.8+R
Location
The route is located on the left side of the south face of Pino Wall. The route parallels License and a Visa, the start is 40ft left of the start of License... The best way to find the start is to rap in on License and a Visa or at least start by rapping in from that route's top anchors. If you choose to rap Parallel Universe you will rap a full 60m straight down from the top of License... this will bring you to the to anchors on top of pitch two of Parallel... two more raps, one short and on long will bring you directly to the start of the route. Once you've topped out simply reverse your approach back to the tram terminal.
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