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Alexander's Chimney Tue/20Oct

Original Post
Steve Towne · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 305

Looking for solid partner to recon/climb Alexander's Chimney this Tuesday. Early start.

-steve

Perfect alpine climbing day lost, ugh!

rmc96 · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 5

Last Saturday my partner and I climbed Alexanders Chimney then traversed to the Notch Couloir over to the summit. Hit me up if you need any beta.

icic-jess · · Breckenfridge · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 115

I've been wanting to do the same sometime soon. I'm busy on Tuesday though, let me know if you are in need of a partner for a later date.

Good luck,

Jess

rmc96 · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 5

I've been getting several people who asked about Alexanders that we climbed October 17th.

We did it in 3 long pitches with a 70m. Ice is abundant yet thin for most of the first and half of the second pitch, third pitch has very little ice. We racked up to #2, 4 ice screws and a set of stoppers, did us just fine but we tend to run things out a bit. I'd take plenty of long runners if you plan to link it all in 3 pitches. We found a pile of slings for each anchor. After the chimney, we traversed the Notch Couloir to Longs, took us about 5 pitches of mostly simul-climbing, last pitch needed a belay for the icy rock section.

The bottom part of Smear of Fear has not formed up yet, but should be soon enough.

Be prepared for a long day! AND, if you find a Black Diamond glove at the bottom of Lamb's Slide, I will repay you with multiple malty-beverages for its safe return...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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