Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Alec Sharp, Matt Lavender, 1981 |
Page Views: | 2,232 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Scott Bennett on Oct 6, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Another fine Alec Sharp horror-show! Ministry of Fear climbs the thin offset seam on the steep, neon green wall just right of "Purple Haze" and "Born under Punches". Climb up the easy, chossy slab up to a chossy roof. Make a big move to a good hold on the lip of the roof, then a fun hand traverse right to the base of the seam. Tenuous lay-backing up the thin offsets leads to an insecure crux move, then a big jug. Mantel up onto the ledge, then scramble left to join "Purple Haze".
There is very little potential for protection, it should be considered a true free solo. The only possibilities I saw:
-Good cams way out left, below the roof. They might protect the big move to the lip, but would do you no good once the seam is reached.
-A couple of small RPs behind a semi-attatched flake in the crack. They'd theoretically protect the crux, but they're very marginal, and would still leaves some hard, tenuous climbing unprotected below.
-I didn't see where they'd go, but apparently Mr. Sharp led this with pre-placed duct-taped hooks?!
-Possibly a thin blade or RURP in the base of the seam?
There is very little potential for protection, it should be considered a true free solo. The only possibilities I saw:
-Good cams way out left, below the roof. They might protect the big move to the lip, but would do you no good once the seam is reached.
-A couple of small RPs behind a semi-attatched flake in the crack. They'd theoretically protect the crux, but they're very marginal, and would still leaves some hard, tenuous climbing unprotected below.
-I didn't see where they'd go, but apparently Mr. Sharp led this with pre-placed duct-taped hooks?!
-Possibly a thin blade or RURP in the base of the seam?
Protection
Hope, Faith, and Love...
or, for mortals, set up a Toprope! Climb "Purple Haze" or "Friends in High Places", lower off the new 2-bolt anchor atop these routes (thanks!). Swing right, and locate a fixed pin on a small ledge above the route. A small cam backs the pin up.
or, for mortals, set up a Toprope! Climb "Purple Haze" or "Friends in High Places", lower off the new 2-bolt anchor atop these routes (thanks!). Swing right, and locate a fixed pin on a small ledge above the route. A small cam backs the pin up.
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