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Aikido Gun Boy
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.8 from 13
votes
Routes in Ragged Edges Area
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Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dense Pack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Diplomatic Immunity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lethal Weapon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Midnight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ok Ok Ok T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Plan F - first pitch (5.10a) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Revoked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Van Betten, Harrison, Meyers, Mamusia, 91 |
| Page Views: | 2,419 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Sep 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This thin, bold, andimpressive route lies just to the right of Chicken Eruptus and starts with a cool boulder problem up to a blocky section before delicate climbing is required to reach the first bolt. From there, its game on past three more bolts and some thin gear to a good ledge.
It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves going to the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there.
Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.
Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.
It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves going to the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there.
Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.
Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.
Photos
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8 Comments