Cathedral Ledge, the forgotten cliff?

It's no secret that Rumney is popular and getting more-so by the year. And why not? It's got well-protected, excellent routes of all grades.

Another phenomenon seems to be occurring, possibly in conjunction with what has been stated above. Cathedral Ledge has been deserted. A nice weekend is likely to see a swarm of people on Thin Air, but classics such as The Book of Solemnity, The Prow, Intimidation, The Possessed, and others have been completely empty.

Have others noticed this phenomenon? Is it a good thing? Do you have experience to refute my observation?

One of the best cliffs in the US has seemingly been forgotten. What's the deal?

be thankful.

Jay Knower wrote:It's no secret that Rumney is popular and getting more-so by the year. And why not? It's got well-protected, excellent routes of all grades. Another phenomenon seems to be occurring, possibly in conjunction with what has been stated above. Cathedral Ledge has been PACKED. HUNDREDS OF PEOPLE. A nice weekend is likely to see a swarm of people on Thin Air, and LINES 10 PARTIES DEEP WAITING FOR classics such as The Book of Solemnity, The Prow, Intimidation, The Possessed, and others have been SO FULL PARTIES HAVE HAD TO BIVY ON GRADE II ROUTES. Have others noticed this phenomenon? IT IS TERRIBLE. You DO NOT have experience to refute my observation. One of the best cliffs in the US has been OVERRUN WITH CLIMBERS. DON'T GO THERE IF YOU WANT TO NOT DIE OF BOREDOM.

Yeah, Jay, I noticed that too. I think avoiding Cathedral is a smart choice.

funny

David Aguasca wrote:I think avoiding Cathedral is a smart choice.

:-) I heard that on sunny weekends it still rains at Cathedral... so definitely don't head up there on the weekends. (and don't check out the webcam either)

Everyone goes to Rumney instead of Cathedral because you can onsight 10 'hard' Rumney routes in the time it would take to thrutch up Bombardment--> Black Lung. Also, no one has ever climbed 5.10 or above at Cathedral Ledge, which is discouraging to some;) By all means go to Rumney, readers.

Yeah, I don't get it either. The area even has good moderate sport climbs like Miss Saigon and Children's Crusade (albeit on Whitehorse). It's also terribly disappointing that there's never a social scene at Barber Wall. Maybe an enterprising young soul could put some top-rope bolts in? Then it will receive some much deserved traffic.

Goodhue wrote:It's also terribly disappointing that there's never a social scene at Barber Wall. Maybe an enterprising young soul could put some top-rope bolts in?

While you're at it, make sure to upgrade all of those routes. We can't let Barber get away with calling them 5.9. :)

Duncan Lennon wrote:...thrutch up Bombardment--> Black Lung...

Hey hey hey! Speak for yourself there, Duncan. I NEVER thrutch, I just CRUSH...ESPECIALLY on 5.6R slab.

Hey now. Don't want to spread misinformation on THIS website. It's not crowded and there are more than enough routes to go around. I've been climbing there almost exclusively this season and it has been so much fun. I just think others could experience the same fun.

Actually, though, who are we kidding? How many people will really leave Rumney to climb @ Cathedral?

Jay Knower wrote:Hey now. Don't want to spread misinformation on THIS website. It's not crowded and there are more than enough routes to go around.

What are you trying to do? Everyone knows that Cathedral rocks, if they choose to go elsewhere... be thankful. Now, lets hope it's contagious and spreads to Eldo, Rifle and Yosemite!

Beagle wrote: What are you trying to do?

I'm wondering WHY it is so quiet over there.

people are flocking elsewhere. Maybe everyone who usually goes to Cathedral has climbed their ticklist there already and is on to other cliffs for new stuff. Whatever the reason, i cannot imagine this will last long, and even if it does, ice season should pack the lot by early december!

Jay Knower wrote: A nice weekend is likely to see a swarm of people on Thin Air, but classics such as The Book of Solemnity, The Prow, Intimidation, The Possessed, and others have been completely empty.

Well partly right I think - in the past week I have done both the Prow and Thin Air. Of course I did spend more time on Thin Air then the Prow - so maybe you are right - then again it might just have been related to which of my kids I had in tow - or more accurately was towing me.

But with what appears to be a very comfy cliff dwelling semi permanently installed at the space station I think the popularity will increase.

Jay Knower wrote: A nice weekend is likely to see a swarm of people on Thin Air, but classics such as The Book of Solemnity, The Prow, Intimidation, The Possessed, and others have been completely empty.

Well partly right I think - in the past week I have done both the Prow and Thin Air. Of course I did spend more time on Thin Air then the Prow - so maybe you are right - then again it might just have been related to which of my kids I had in tow - or more accurately was towing me.

But with what appears to be a very comfy cliff dwelling semi permanently installed at the space station I think the popularity will increase.

I blame it on the recession.
Kids can only afford quick draws and not a full rack of gear.

Seriously though, I think it is just a shift in climbing style of the younger climbers. Rumney looks much more like the gym they are used to than Cathedral. I brought a kid out a few weeks ago and there was ONE perfect hand jam to pull through the crux and he couldn't do it. He laid it back and scummed his hip up the wall.

Although the moves can be harder, Rumney is easier. That's all.

I think its a matter of perspective as a former west coast climber I noticed the crowds at catherdal when I was climbing there. But my sample pool is quite small...

Eric Engberg wrote: But with what appears to be a very comfy cliff dwelling semi permanently installed at the space station I think the popularity will increase.

Hi Eric. We saw you and Zeb there (I forgot which day) and also saw you and your daughter on the Thin Air face on Monday. It looked like you guys were having a great time. The ledge you speak of only appears at certain times, BTW.

The weather is not so good.
Who has the time to scrub and clean dirt out of cracks.
Its much easier to climb 11+ sport rtes than say The Possesed, Budapest etc etc.

I would have to say it was the same when I lived there 20 yrs ago. Only a dozen or so of the same climbers were on the harder routes.
They get bored and move somewhere else, usually out west.
Except for a few hardy cutomers like Larson and Doug the NE climbing scene runs in cycles.

Shame, as it is one of the best cliffs in the US.

Jay Knower wrote: Actually, though, who are we kidding? How many people will really leave Rumney to climb @ Cathedral?

MEEEE! I moved up there this summer to climb from plymouth. And still spend weekends up there instead what's up with all these kids just bouldering and sport climbing when Cathedral is so close! No but really, I enjoy the small but awesome community that still populates the cliff up there every day

Psyched to hear that things are slow. I'm planning on climbing there in a couple of weeks. Hopefully the trend holds.