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Routes in West Canyon
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Ebony Eggshells T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Falcon, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Fool's paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mistaken Identity S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Prudence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Swan Song S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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W'gasa T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Troy D. Anderson and Nate Brown 1998 |
| Page Views: | 1,533 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Brown on Aug 28, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
All Climbing in West Canyon is closed from Feb 1 to June 1st for nesting closures.
Description
Good desert adventure on what has been previously described as the "Falcon Arie" meaning the wall that starts with "Babes in Thailand" on the southern (left) end and ending in the north-facing routes to the north including an old, mostly forgotten Lowe aid route. Troy and I did this route after the bolting ban came in to effect and a permit/application process was required for any new fixed anchors. Troy and I did the route without drilling. Troy lead a pitch half way up the route that was about 80 feet of 5.10 slab and face climbing over a sidewalk-type ledge. We found a broken bicycle half way up the route that we later learned came from a television stunt spearheaded by Middendorf. Joe French has joked about calling this system "The Whores of Singapore".
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