Snow on Broadway and at base of lower E. face Longs Peak?
|
Hi there, |
|
Picture says a thousand words? |
|
It's been two weeks, but 7/18 the bivy situation on Broadway was good for two people. Unfortunately for me we had three. There was plenty of snow to melt and a nice seep down by the COD raps. If you don't get the alpine start climbing the COD you will be plenty wet by the time you get to Broadway(I was at least). You might want to climb it in your sneakers or bring an extra pair of climbing shoes. |
|
Was there yesterday 8/3. North Chimney was doable although not cake. The approach staight up the snow to it was best. Snow was very firm for AM start and if you didn't have steps to follow an ice axe was rec. Following in the track from the day before made it doable although not pleasant. I wouldn't consider a Crack of Delight trip an improvement in time or conditions (wet and dripping) over the N. Chimney. Snow at the Bivy cave is old and funky not my choice for melting although the snow on the end of Broadway on the left side of the Diamond might provide better options for that. I'm sure if you cast about a bit you can find a drip that will provide what you need. As Kevin said the third pitch is usually wet other than that preceeding 2 -3 days weather is your biggest determinant. |
|
We bivvied on Broadway on Sunday night, 8/2 and climbed the Casual yesterday, 8/3. Jeff, I think we might have the party ahead of you on the Casual. |
|
Thanks to all for the above info and photo....that's what I needed to know. I love this forum! |
|
Hello all, |
|
Pervertical is very dry and in good condition. Did Ariana yesterday which shares pitches with Pervertical. I had a good look at the entire route. N. Chimney is in it's normal condition. No big deal. Snow is firm up Mills glacier. An axe or crampons would make things much easier. |
|
Thanks Jeff. |
|
At the moment (08/11/09) there is a fixed static line in place |
|
I was up there on monday and I regret not bringing crampons. Something light that you can strap on over an approach shoe would be ideal. |