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The drop test block in position. It was set up to simulate a leader fall from the bolt above the suspect bolt with some slack in the system to simulate pulling up slack to clip the bolt, etc. The bolt above the suspect bolt was only about 5 feet above so not a big runout.
The bolt, hanger and biner on the test block got kind of mangled but didn't fail.
The suspect bolt.
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By Colin Kenneth
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 21, 2010

so...I'm not sure if I get the background for this test, but it seems to me, that you went up and basically vandalized this route until what you thought COULD happen, finally did.

All of this, as opposed to just replacing the bolt on the other side of the flake. Then the climb could be left intact, and the bolt could satisfy your safety requirements...

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The suspect bolt.

Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Jun 7, 2009
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