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Obscure route on Blackwidow/ Boulder canyon

Original Post
Senor Gringo · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 20

So I was up in the Vampire/ Black widow area a couple days ago and we started off on Kate Moss. As I was nearing 5th or 6th bolt, the one with some newerish red webbing and a quicklink, I glanced left and noticed another old piton. I know of only one route that Kor did to the right of Kate Moss in a very green and mossy corner. I am curious if anyone has any other documentation on what appears to be a very old and rarely, if ever, climbed route. It didn't look great, obviously, with all the years to allow the plants to grow back.

I also noticed 1 random bolt about ten feet directly right of the anchors for Kate Moss. No other bolts around, seem to be enough natural features to protect well and the anchors for Consilience are much further down. Just seems like an oddball bolt with no other bolts around. Maybe Bob D or Vaino could clarify this.

Lastly, a quick rant. Whoever replaced the Tyrolean for access to Vampire and Black widow, thanks for the new rope on it, and also the hardware and the other side of the river but did you really have too much junk to not tote out all the old cord you just replaced? We picked up a large pile or rope on the climbing side of the river and an even larger pile of rope and debris from the road side. Just seemed so half assed to rig a whole new tyrolean and drill two new bolts into the slab across the river but not pack the rest of your project out. Maybe I missed something, maybe you were or are coming back for the old tat. If so, I'd be happy to get you all the old cord back.

Thanks for reading!

The Piker · · colo. springs · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 50

River???????Gees I haven't been up there for a long time, but now there's a f*****G river? What happened to Boulder creek?Don't tear your spandex on the tyrol.Look up WADE in the dictionary.

Senor Gringo · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 20
The Piker wrote:River???????Gees I haven't been up there for a long time, but now there's a f*****G river? What happened to Boulder creek?Don't tear your spandex on the tyrol.Look up WADE in the dictionary.
You clearly have no idea what you just said. Wading would be seriously dicey for quite aways around, at least now during damn releases, high water and such. One slip and you catch your lunch. Please stay in colorado springs with that lousy attitude!
djoseph · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

The creek is running very strong right now... I believe the Ned reservoir overflowed a few days ago.

Anyway, don't mean to derail the thread but: is the tyro at Vampire/BW the only way to get to Sleeping Beauty/Beer Can/etc. these days? I thought I remember that the Sleeping Beauty tyro was down...

Any thoughts?

Thx,
Dan

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,360
djoseph wrote:The creek is running very strong right now... I believe the Ned reservoir overflowed a few days ago. Anyway, don't mean to derail the thread but: is the tyro at Vampire/BW the only way to get to Sleeping Beauty/Beer Can/etc. these days? I thought I remember that the Sleeping Beauty tyro was down... Any thoughts? Thx, Dan
There is a tyrolean at Sleeping Beauty that was in good shape about a month ago, and I presume it still is. No need to use the Vampire Rock tyrolean to access Sleeping Beauty or the Beer Can.

Here are the tyroleans in Boulder Canyon that I know about. As far as I know, they are all usable:

  • Cob Rock
  • Sherwood Forest
  • Tonnere Tower
  • Bell Buttress (Aquarium Wall)
  • Avalon
  • Vampire Rock
  • Sleeping Beauty
djoseph · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0
Ron Olsen wrote: There is a tyrolean at Sleeping Beauty that was in good shape about a month ago, and I presume it still is.
Thanks Ron... I assume it's the one upstream from the parking lot? (Didn't see the one that's usually at the parking lot tree... then again, perhaps I just didn't spot it.)

Thanks again for your work on the tyros...

Dan
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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