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crack rack at rocks and ropes

Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275

Oooooh, pretty. Heck with Indian Creek, I'm going to spend my next vacation at Momentum!

Jonas Salk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 10

i'd be psyched to see a crack too. i'm one of those people you see tying to get up the hard crack on the back of the boulder... haven't pulled it off yet, but maybe someday. i think the big problem with building a crack is that it can't be changed, so people will get bored with it. who knows? i'm going over there right now to ask why there is no crack in the gym! if i find out anything enlightening i'll post it.

Daryl Allan · · Sierra Vista, AZ · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,040

Just got back from Oklahoma city. While there, my wife and i went over to Rocktown which is a 100' tall grain silo complex converted into a climbing gym. They had a 100' crack built up the inside of one of the silos and you can bet your butter that was the first thing i jumped on. Man was that cool! I'll get some pics posted as soon as i get them off my camera.

Brian Boyd · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 4,423

Jon,

You need one of these:

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646
Brian Boyd wrote:Jon, You need one of these:
*drool*

is that your yard?
Brian Boyd · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 4,423

Yep. And, it's closer than the Planet Rock cracks you posted ;)

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646
Brian Boyd wrote:Yep. And, it's closer than the Planet Rock cracks you posted ;)
nice. that's quite an inspiring setup you have there. did you do it all yourself?

i'm in the process of buying a house and one of the first things i intend to do is build an adjustable crack machine, since it seems like rocks and ropes won't oblige me. =)
Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275

I'm tellin' ya, you can build that thing in my yard and *then* move it to yours.

Brian Boyd · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 4,423

Some more cave shots:







Also, I have plans for building a crack hangboard:



Instructions are here:

briankboyd.com/climb/WPages…
Mike Dudley · · Vegas · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 155

Wanna be my friend?

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646
Brigette wrote:I'm tellin' ya, you can build that thing in my yard and *then* move it to yours.
hmm, an intriguing proposition. but what guarantee do i have that my newly-constructed crack machine will be granted passage to leave your yard?

Brian Boyd wrote:Some more cave shots:


/i want one!
Daryl Allan · · Sierra Vista, AZ · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,040

... and then, all at once, every notion that i had become obsessed with climbing was gone. And I'll be bookmarking this thread for the next time that subject comes up between the warden and I.

Braxton Norwood · · Billings Montana · Joined Mar 2003 · Points: 1,370

I have a 16' crack machine, made of 1x8s. If anyone (Jon?) wants it, it's yours. I'll upload a pic when I get a chance.

Dan Cohen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 15

PM sent for crack machine.

Note: Jon, holler at me.

danpierce · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

I spoke with an employee of rocks and ropes a few weeks back about the cracks at the planet rock in ann arbor. i got the same response "people climb it once and then lose interest". i told him i didnt necessarily agree but i could see it happen. i also climbed at a gym outside of cleveland that had a 35 ft tips, fingers, and offset thin hands, and a 20 ft roof hand crack. they were only used by a few climbers but those that used them loved them and came to the gym to train on them and them alone. it just seems like Rocks and Ropes is not too interested in pertaining to crack specific climbing. not sure if it is because the management isnt into that type of climbing or just they do not want to invest in it. either way, it would be a great addition to their facility.

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

Well, the problem with crack climbing is that it is unintuitive, and painful if you don't know what you're doing. Its not a recipe for fun if you're a regular plastic puller. And lets face it, all of the Arizona crack climbers go to Paradise Forks or Sedona. They don't climb in gyms that much. Plus, most artificial cracks just aren't very good. The kind of variety required to keep the average gym climber involved is antithetical to crack training, and what most enjoy in crack climbing.

Most people who are really motivated to train for cracks are motivated enough to build a crack machine themselves.

Joe Kreidel · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,495

The two gyms I've spent the most time in both had cracks that were rarely climbed. Upper Limits in St. Louis has three pretty good cracks (for a gym) of various difficulty, and when someone actually got on one, everyone would stop and watch because it was such an unusual sight.

Not to be a wet blanket, but my guess is that if cracks weren't part of the original design and construction, the owners probably won't consider it cost effective to add one later. I hope you guys prevail, though, I definitely need to work on my jamming skills...

Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275

Jon: I don't own the house, so I'll have to move out eventually. :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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