Suggestions for a transition shoe from Mythos

Acopa Aztec !

Size them the same as your street shoe size, or thereabouts. Don't go smaller unless you like really tight shoes, go a 1/2 size larger if you want a really comfy all day shoe and don't mind giving up some micro-edge ability.

FWIW, I made that transition from the Mythos recently and here's what I think:

The Aztec has a hidden foam pad under the heel (comfy), slightly thicker leather than a Mythos, slightly thicker rubber than the Mythos, better shape for edging, and yet I think I actually gained smearing power over the Mythos. The marginal increase in leather and rubber thickness makes them more supportive, but they aren't stiff by any means. I can't speak to the durability of the rubber, but it has a very good feel and stickiness. It has this odd tendency to feel equally sticky on both rough and polished holds on granite, haven't tried it on sandstone yet.

I second the votes on Acopa Aztecs and Scarpa Technos. Both are great alternative to Mythos. I find the Technos more comfortable in cracks than the Aztecs. On the edging climbs I prefer my Aztecs.

I second the Techno's

CalmAdrenaline wrote:I second the Techno's

I went to REI to find a Mythos equivalent (my feet - foot width and toe length/ angles, etc - are not comfortable in La Sportiva climbing shoes, and the power point [toe] on the shoe does not align with my big toe); I ended up with the Technos (had not even heard about them prior to my visit) and I love them. Of course, I have had many Scarpa's in the past so I trusted their performance.

I agree, Scarpa Technos are great. I hear from some people that they don't fit a wide range of feet, but if they do fit, you are in for a treat. They have spectacular edging power and are tougher than the Mythos. Protect feet really well in cracks too. And they have a high performance spring to them. I hear they were invented by a disgruntled shoe designer of Sportiva. There is nothing like wearing someone elses revenge on your feet.

Hmm. I've got to say that I love the Mythos. My issue, like the OP, is that they are really good to jam with (as opposed to a technical toe-curling shoe like the Anasazi), but aren't as good for edging.

I just picked up a pair of the Barracudas. They seem to have better edging power, but I'm finding that like most technical edging shoes, the toe is asymmetrical, which ends up making the fit a little bit more spacious by my big toe. The nice thing about the Mythos is that they are much more symmetrical and tend to fit my toe profile better.

It'll be interesting to see how the Barracudas work out, but my bet is that if you have the same foot shape as me (long 2nd toe), that symmetrical shoes will feel like a better fit. If I don't like the Barracudas, I plan on simply sizing down a pair of mythos for more pressure on my big toe.