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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
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A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dirk McDiggler & Drug Shop Dave |
| Page Views: | 1,822 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Arthur Parker on Jan 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The first pitch had been done years ago but the second is quite stout, strenuous and a real battle to protect. The full route is called Lemon Bomb, 170 ft 5.11d. Start as for Red Zinger at the base of the deep left facing corner.
1. 90 ft 5.9 Layback up the wide flake to the left of the main corner. Continue up the thinner cracks above to an anchor on a ledge.
2. 80 ft 5.11d Continue up the tips crack into an awkward flare. Above the flare an easier fist crack leads to a ledge on the right with an anchor.
(Admin note: Apparently some sources incorrectly identify this route as "The A Crack," but the actual A Crack is really about 150 yards to the right of Red Zinger down and around the corner on the right side of the Byrd Pinnacle.)
1. 90 ft 5.9 Layback up the wide flake to the left of the main corner. Continue up the thinner cracks above to an anchor on a ledge.
2. 80 ft 5.11d Continue up the tips crack into an awkward flare. Above the flare an easier fist crack leads to a ledge on the right with an anchor.
(Admin note: Apparently some sources incorrectly identify this route as "The A Crack," but the actual A Crack is really about 150 yards to the right of Red Zinger down and around the corner on the right side of the Byrd Pinnacle.)
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