Grading Question
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I'm struggling with grading on cracks. |
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Chris Drover wrote:I am a recent convert from the bolt side (more accurately, I have finally raised sufficient funds to begin trad), and I'm struggling with grading on cracks. Question: Take an idealized perfectly vertical, perfectly parallel, deep hand crack. No face holds. Grade? Edit - also, not in a corner, dihedral or anything of the like. Vertical flat face, vertical parallel hand crack. Note that I'm not referring to any specific climb - just trying to get a baseline for what the difficulty of trad moves is on the scale.oh god. you just opened pandoras box. besides, to answer your hypothetical description, it could be anywhere from 5.6-5.12 depending on your hand size and experience level. |
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5.fun |
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This is probably the best hand crack I've ever had the chance to lead. |
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How would a vertical hand crack be 5.6? Super, super short (like 1 move)? Even short hand cracks tend to get 5.8 IMO (think Short and Stupid in Moab, on this site). |
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Sounds like super crack to me. I'd say that would be 5.10+/- depending on your hand size. All cracks will feel different for each person depending on hand size mainly. |
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Chris Drover wrote:Take an idealized perfectly vertical, perfectly parallel, deep hand crack. No face holds. Grade?Perfect hand crack? 5.9. For me, that means a #3 friend crack. For you? Really depends on your hand size... -Brian in SLC |
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.6 to .8 -- could be higher, depends more on how the feet go. It's a moderate climb. |
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Thanks for all the replies; and I certainly understand it varies from person to person. Mostly I'm just trying to get a feel for what something like "5.9 hands" on a topo might mean. I've spent too much time on faces... |
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seriously, the only way to know what 5.9 hands means on a topo is to climb a bunch of 5.9 hands at a bunch of areas. If you compare a 5.9 handcrack at Vedauwoo to one at the City of Rocks, both are old granite, but very different experiences (ie ass kicking versus cruise). |
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Gargoyle in JTree is straight in hands and feet and a 5.6. However it's neither dead vertical nor very long IIRC. |
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As someone told me just before my first trip to Indian Creek: "In the creek, it's not about ratings, it's all about hand size. You might cruise a 5.10b, just because your hands are the perfect fit." Not terribly helpful, I know, but *absolutely true.* |
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Gargoyle in JTree is straight in hands and feet and a 5.6. However it's neither dead vertical nor very long IIRC. |
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Gargoyle in JTree is straight in hands and feet and a 5.6. However it's neither dead vertical nor very long IIRC. |
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could you repeat that Kevin? |
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Kevin Craig wrote:Gargoyle in JTree is straight in hands and feet and a 5.6. However it's neither dead vertical nor very long IIRC. Hard 8 to 10a sounds about right depending on how comfy the feet are and length.That sounds about right. And that same crack would be easy for an experienced crack climber and damn near impossible looking to any one else. |
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I first went to the desert in 1980 with no particular crack skills (and fewer friends) and I would agree with the 5.fun rating. If you look at it and it strikes you as something that you can to do, then get on it! (In my later years, sometimes I see the ratings and if I'd known it then I wouldn't have tried it. But somehow I did it then.) Repeating, if it looks good to you: give it a go! |
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Dang! Sorry Mark. I was posting from my phone and my post wasn't showing up so I kept submitting. Doh! |
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Mark Nelson wrote: But 5.12?? c'mon Darren; I realize CCC can be soft, but don't get carried away.i dont know of any cracks like this in CCC. Slice and Dice, IC UT, (5.12) is an example that fits his description for someone that has little hands. in other words, if the OP specified the size of the crack relative to his hands, then that would help with the answer of grade. EDIT: actually, Coyne Crack is a better example. My point was earlier is that a "hand" crack can mean anything from baggy greens to blue camalots... depending on who you are. but i am being a smart ass, and usually hands means 2.5 Friend. |
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colin tuck wrote:seriously, the only way to know what 5.9 hands means on a topo is to climb a bunch of 5.9 hands at a bunch of areas. If you compare a 5.9 handcrack at Vedauwoo to one at the City of Rocks, both are old granite, but very different experiences (ie ass kicking versus cruise).Depends on the 5.9 hands. Plumbline is a cake walk. Climb and Punishment is... not so much. For a dead vertical, #3 friends size that has no flares or constrictions, tentatively 5.9. Could be as hard as 5.9+ if its a full ropelength's worth. |
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I agree with jfox. |