solo toprope?

is it considered good practice to be too lazy to find a partner and to toprope solo on a fixed line with an ascender?

I recently picked up a soloist and have been doing allot of toprope soloing this winter. It works out great for me, I can just head out anytime I feel the urge to get on the rock.

i cant really afford a soloist so i was wondering if an ascender will work?

I use a ropeman often with backup knots on the other half of the rope doubled over. Light cheap and it works.

so im assuming the short answer is "yes it works" right?

NO! Never allow for a fall potential onto a handled ascender. Read a petzl catalog every now and again for some basic tips. I won't tell you how to TR solo but your going about it the wrong way. Try a grigri, ina pinch a rope master will do or better yet a commercially available device. Anyone who takes falls onto a handled jug is a moron. Never fall onto any toothed device more than a foot. The smooth toothed, fully enclosed rope master is ok but not advisable

ben schuldt wrote:i cant really afford a soloist so i was wondering if an ascender will work?

Robert got a good deal on his soloist.

Glad it is working out good for you Robert!

Edit: And I wouldn't recommend an ascender either.

RyRy wrote:NO! Never allow for a fall potential onto a handled ascender...Anyone who takes falls onto a handled jug is a moron. Never fall onto any toothed device more than a foot.

Agreed! I have tried this method in the past and do not recommend it. Read the events surrounding the death of a climber last year in Zion on Touchstone.
He was getting set to jug a line when his ascenders failed to engage and he fell twenty feet...when it did engage, it severed the rope. Not recommended.
I use a grigri without modification or a soloist with back up knots.
Search this topic as it has already been exhaustively discussed here and on other websites. Be careful!

I used ascenders, two, for many years but was always certain that fall potential was maybe 6" or less. In other words, no slack at all. But I was never totally thrilled by the system and have moved on to a Cinch, with a Croll for redundancy. I may move on from this, too, but for now it's easier to use, and definitely 'feels' safer than toothed devices.

I recommend you again refer to the intended and proper applications of your devices. (Read Your Manual) A croll? NO! If you fail to use a device in its intended use and it fails you are to blame because its outside the scope of its manufactured intent.

With that said: There are many devices you can try. A shunt with a 16" dynamic jane or equivalent tied bone connected to the waist can act as a belay provided that you never allow the device to pass your center of gravity. NEVER touch the device! Treat it like its hot only touch the biner. Tie a string no longer than 6" for down climbing and only pinch it. NEVER wrap your finger around the cord because if you fall the device will not engage. When you fall the device will slide to absorb the impact. Cons; potential to fry the rope

Devices (petzl only in this post so one may see the catalog more readily) intended for rope soloing TR. Minitraxion and protraxion. For NEWBS try both. Have the pro above with a cord or bungy to keep the device up and not allowing the device to be shock loaded E.G. Hanging low on your harness. Next have the mini below on maybe a belay master biner. Once comfy with falling some remove security blanket of the mini and just go for it. Both are nice if your multi pitch multi ropin it, as one may pass the pro with the detached swing gate above knots and then move the mini with the fixed side latter.

Sorry to let the cat out to those who think this is a secret. P.S. There are other ways to solo that are better. Explore manufactuers and always be most importantly SAFE, read the instructions before you buy.

I think the OP wanted a simpler answer. Is it reasonable to TR solo with an ascender? The answer is Maybe, depending on the ascender. I use an Ushba Basic Ascender for TR solo. The literature that comes with the device clearly states that it IS certified and safe for TR solo application. Mini-Trax says that too. Others are not designed for that application, and may or may not fail. Even the approved devices might fail, so use backups. I like the Ushba cause it has no teeth, but your mileage may vary.

RyRy you are completely wrong in your assumption. Handled ascenders are meant to be used as solo TR devices...look at the Petzl literature it is right there. The Croll and Basic are modifications of the handled device that work better for this.

The key is to have the handled ascender oriented properly, you need to have the rope and your ascenders top point attached to your locker on your belay device.

Personally I have done it and it works fine, I would not do it without a separate backup ascender on a sling hanging from your harness or at least use backup knots.

Ben,

I started top rope soloing last summer. I am not very into top roping in general but I love this! Without a belayer I feel less rushed, I will stop in the middle of a route for a while and just look around, take in the scenery, and I find different holds and ways to use the rock. I think it will improve my climbing.

I use a Petzl Microscender and a second strand that I use for back up, tie butterflys as I go. I don't get anywhere near my limit on top rope solo but I do keep my cell phone handy just in case. I also prefer not to do it in an isolated environment.

I second the idea of the microscender. I personally use the rescuscender, but the micro has the same camming action and is quite a bit smaller. Best of all...no teeth.

There are many different ways to go about TR solo. While I do not approve some methods I agree you can use some devices outside of there scope. Petzl, SPRAT, IRATA and UIAA do not recommend ever falling onto a toothed rope grab of any type. Toothless is ok but only if the grab is used properly. E.G. Using a shock absorber,leash or other design requirement. The asap is a industrial toothed rope trailer but it has a inertia switch to allow slippage and must be used with a shock absorber. Obviously someone outside of professionalism can just clip it directly to there harness and climb but without following the manufacturers guide lines you are on your own as to whether or not your system works and are liable for your own negligence. As always I only want people to be safe and use the proper equipment for each situation. Note: I believe I was misunderstood before. My professional opinion is that no one should climb solely on a toothed handled accender for there belay

sorry for the thread hijack, but what do you guys think about using 2 prussiks to TR solo, tying chicken knots every few feet? it seems like it would be more work than a soloist or a grigri, but for us poor kids, would this be safe?

AGAIN!!! How many times has this topic come up in the last few months, many!!!

I'm wasting time chiming in on this post, it'll come up again in a couple more weeks or months.

BTW, soloist rocks, and the grigri's not bad either: for both tr'ing and leading!

Juan

Grant,

I was using a garda hitch for a while. Make sure you are backed up, the garda requires a lot of attention for this application. I also would recommend using ovals that are as sysmetric as possible. Once you get hooked, you will find a way to buy an ascender.