Mountain Project Logo

Moab area - Intro aid routes?

Clayton Rardon · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 260

If The Kingfisher has been rebolted since 2003 I'll also nominate it as a nice 1st aid climb.

As for The Tombstone, not knowing in advance about the base jumpers, and having one go right over me was extremely un-nerving.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990
Brad Brandewie wrote:Andy, I would go straight for the Kingfisher. It's easy, proud, and sports one of the better summits to be had anywhere in the desert. It was my first aid climb and I climbed the whole thing in a pair of Karakorems. After you top that out, you will have a lot better idea of what you want to try next. Brad
I had heard the crux pitch on the Kingfisher was a bit sketchy... at least for an early aid lead. No?
Brad Brandewie · · Estes Park · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 2,931

The third pitch is the crux but it isn't that bad. There is one TCU/Alien placement that made me think. This is before the short traverse. (which is a walk along a narrow ledge) Again, it was my first aid route so that "sketchy" placement is probably not too bad.

If you're concerned about anything higher on that pitch you could likely bypass any sketch placements/missing bolts with a stick clip. When I climbed the KF there was a bolt missing on the first pitch and I had to have a stick from the ground to get past it. This is probably not the case anymore though. If the rack doesn't already call for it, I would suggest 2 butterfly hangers, 2 screamers and a red and pink tri-cam for this one.

It's an awesome tower and you will (and should) feel proud when you top out!

Looking forward to the TR... :)

Brad

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

I thought the kingfisher crux was pretty easy, but I got out of the aiders for a few moves here and there which might have skipped tricky placements. There is no way I would have done that if the free climbing wasn't really easy since I turn into a total free climbing coward after pulling out the aiders. I think you would cruise the Kingfisher Andy, and if you flail on the crux pitch you can always fix a line or two and finish it up the next day.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Thanks for the beta guys... and Phantom Sprint also looks good. Apparently C2....?

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Phantom Sprint is wonderful. Most of it is cruiser C1, but there are a few tricky thin moves on the fourth pitch. I thought offset aliens and lowe balls were helpful, but it is possible without them. The only caveat is that there is some 5.9 offwidth above the tricky thin spot and then a squeeze chimney. You could aid or french free the offwidth if you bring a fair amount of big stuff(you need some anyway at the end of P3), but the chimney is mandatory though not hard. The summit ridge pitch could be scarier than it already is without climbing shoes, but you'd be plenty satisfied even if you skipped that pitch and you downclimb it anyway so bailing isn't an issue. The route is cold so bring a warm belay jacket.

Kevin Sainio · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 480

Of course all this info is only good if you can make it to the base of the climb. Hindu would be fun, but the approach isn't the easiest, and doing it with a tender broken foot wouldn't be fun at all.

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 775

If approach is of concern & you have a high clearance car, this is a nice short bolt ladder (looong stick clip for 1st bolt + slabby free move from last bolt are key challenges):

mountainproject.com/v/utah/…

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone... we're just finishing up our trip now.... despite dodgy weather, we were able to tick the following...

  • Pickle (C0)
  • Pensive Putterman (C1)
  • Happy Turk (C0)
  • Echo Rock / Window Route (aided the crack, so C1)
  • House of Putterman (mostly 5.9 free, with a short bolt ladder on top)
  • Hindu C2
  • Kingfisher C2
  • Phantom Sprint C2

Everything went pretty smoothly, though I found the Kingfisher a little spooky (the placements are blowing out) and Phantom Sprint to be super physical.

We were worked by the top of Phantom Sprint. The wide cracks were challenging for us to aid (probably a technique issue), and freeing the squeeze at the top was truly horrendous for me. If you get lost up there, don't worry - just follow the trail of my blood.

My broken foot felt OK... until the squeeze on top of Phantom Sprint. Now I'm limping around, and have a very bad feeling I've refractured my foot. Lame.

A great trip, and everyone's suggestions were perfect.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
Post a Reply to "Moab area - Intro aid routes?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.