Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | Alec Sharp and David Moore? 1980 |
Page Views: | 3,917 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Adam Brink on Feb 5, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The guidebook calls this route "stupendous," and I wouldn't argue. The original route starts just to the right of pitch 1 of Practice Climb, climbs that slab, turns the arete, and joins Unbroken Chain where the crack goes vertical. The second pitch climbs the spicy slab above Sidewall's first belay anchors to the hanging corner to the left of the second pitch of Sidewall. This second pitch is simply amazing, with stellar position, excellent movement and bomber protection (after the first runout)
Variation: Unbroken Prophet - this gets rid of the silly original start and allows one to link Unbroken Chain into False Prophet in one gobsmacking 130 foot pitch that might just be one of the best single stretches of climbing in Eldo. If you don't believe me, go give it a try. It has everything; lots of sustained 11+ climbing, sketchy gear, great gear, brilliant movement, great position and it just keeps going and going.
Variation: Unbroken Prophet - this gets rid of the silly original start and allows one to link Unbroken Chain into False Prophet in one gobsmacking 130 foot pitch that might just be one of the best single stretches of climbing in Eldo. If you don't believe me, go give it a try. It has everything; lots of sustained 11+ climbing, sketchy gear, great gear, brilliant movement, great position and it just keeps going and going.
Location
This is located in the Sidewall area. Either start the original way (not very good) to the right of Practice Climb or start with Unbroken Chain, and link it in one amazing pitch. You need a 70m rope to do this and get all the way back down.
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