Type: |
Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
FA: | S. Dieckhoff, G. Ringsby? |
Page Views: | 891 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 8, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route can be found on the SW Face of the Morning Thunder wall on the lower West Ridge. Approach as for Morning Thunder, but this climb is around the corner "left" of M.T., just past "Thunderbolts From Hell." A broken system of far overhanging flakes (mostly solid) goes up and left through an alcove. Most of the protection is 2-2.5" and most of the holds can be jammed. The rock is rough and sharp, so it grips well, but also cuts/abrades. Tape up. Place gear at the lip and mantel up. [Reaching] the bolt from the lip will be nearly impossible for those under 6'0" and difficult for those who are. A reasonable move with a cam in a horizontal at your waist/knees protects the move to get on the face, then clip the bolt. Ascend while traversing to the right past the bolt (crux) past a slanting, slightly sloping, BROKEN(*) hold, diagonaling up to an incut "bucket" on a rail near the arete. Easier moves are made to reach the summit, near the right hand arete.
Belay from the top on whatever gear you can wrangle. Descend as for Morning Thunder.
(*) A 4" by 6" flake has obviously been broken off, just right of the bolt, this is crux hands, then crux feet. It is apparent from the print left [on the] rock that the top of said flake was once flat relative to the earth's plane, and also inches higher, [definitely] providing a higher hand and foot and presumably one less insecure. The grade felt more difficult than S.D.'s other routes near that grade, IE, Saturnailia, (11b) and nearly as hard as Thunderbolts from Hell, (12a) I wondered if the hold was broken off after the grade was assigned, and perhaps even recently?
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