Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m) Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: S. Dieckhoff, G. Ringsby?
Page Views: 891 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route can be found on the SW Face of the Morning Thunder wall on the lower West Ridge. Approach as for Morning Thunder, but this climb is around the corner "left" of M.T., just past "Thunderbolts From Hell." A broken system of far overhanging flakes (mostly solid) goes up and left through an alcove. Most of the protection is 2-2.5" and most of the holds can be jammed. The rock is rough and sharp, so it grips well, but also cuts/abrades. Tape up. Place gear at the lip and mantel up. [Reaching] the bolt from the lip will be nearly impossible for those under 6'0" and difficult for those who are. A reasonable move with a cam in a horizontal at your waist/knees protects the move to get on the face, then clip the bolt. Ascend while traversing to the right past the bolt (crux) past a slanting, slightly sloping, BROKEN(*) hold, diagonaling up to an incut "bucket" on a rail near the arete. Easier moves are made to reach the summit, near the right hand arete.

Belay from the top on whatever gear you can wrangle. Descend as for Morning Thunder.

(*) A 4" by 6" flake has obviously been broken off, just right of the bolt, this is crux hands, then crux feet. It is apparent from the print left [on the] rock that the top of said flake was once flat relative to the earth's plane, and also inches higher, [definitely] providing a higher hand and foot and presumably one less insecure. The grade felt more difficult than S.D.'s other routes near that grade, IE, Saturnailia, (11b) and nearly as hard as Thunderbolts from Hell, (12a) I wondered if the hold was broken off after the grade was assigned, and perhaps even recently? 

Protection Suggest change

A few large stoppers and cams from 1" to 3" with an extra 2" or 2.5" if you like to sew it up. A single bolt protects the true crus of the route.

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