Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 184 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | McLaughlin and Schuler, 1987 |
Page Views: | 16,692 total · 61/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.
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