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Easy to set up toprope for this and "brimston...
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 14, 2009
Mike, you do have each anchor line looped through BOTH carabiners right? From the angle, it looks like each line goes to an individual biner, but it could be the picture....
By michael sulis
From: Portland, OR
Mar 7, 2010
It's one big loop, doubled over, then with two limiting knots tied into it to limit extension. So each end is locked to the anchor bolt, then the two pear biners each go around two cords. Kinda hard to read in this picture. But I assure you it's bombproof, I'm the most nervous anchor builder on earth. I think I got it from the John Long book and/or a mountaineer friend who's also an instructor. One or both of those people call it a "quad" I believe.

Thanks for checking though :)
By Bob Gaines
Mar 8, 2010
Not the correct quad set-up. In Climbing Anchors there is a detailed description and close-up photos of how to rig the quad.

This looks like what is known as the equalette, tied on a doubled cordellette.

A handy refernce book is the Climbing Anchors Field Guide, which is a companion book to Climbing Anchors, that is designed to be taken out in the field. On page 80-81 there is a description and photo of the equalette, and on page 87-88 a photo and description of how to rig the quad.
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Nov 5, 2011
Bob, if that is not a quad, I don't know what is.

Climbing Anchors pg. 171 states:

The quad is simply a doubled equalette, resulting in a four-strand "super sling" ...
By Bob Gaines
Nov 5, 2011
The QUAD rig is when you clip into three of the four strands, leaving one as a back-up, as illustrated in the Climbing Anchors book. The rig pictured here looks like a "doubled equalette" in the way that the carabiners are clipped. Both the QUAD and the doubled equalette are tied the same way to start- just different in the way the carabiners are attached.

I'm not saying it's unsafe, it's just not what we refer to as the QUAD rig.
By Bob Gaines
Nov 5, 2011
QUAD rig
QUAD rig
By Bob Gaines
Nov 5, 2011
Doubled equalette (you'd want to oppose and revers...
Doubled equalette
(you'd want to oppose and reverse the carabiners for a TR set-up)
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Nov 23, 2011
Bob, the distinction is much clearer now. Thank you!
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Easy to set up toprope for this and "brimstone stairway" on the same anchor.

Submitted By: michael sulis on Jan 14, 2009
On this route:
Deadheads (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c )
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