Wide stuff in the Northeast?
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Hey folks: |
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Maybe my mind has blanked out a few of these but- Piss Easy 10-ish is direct finish to Diedre that NEVER gets done but is actually ok. The 5.11 finish to the Beast is a good struggle. Crack between Worlds 5.11 HA !!! Kurt Winkler testpiece SQUUZZEY.Windjammer at Painted Walls is nice flare with good pro 11-ish and my fave |
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a good hit in CT would be East Peak/ amphitheater area |
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Thanks for the thoughts, folks! |
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Coz Teplitz wrote:Thanks for the thoughts, folks! Has anyone here climbed that heinous-looking off-width on the second tier at Farley? Is it as hard as it looks?i think this was done 3 ? years ago or so and 12+ |
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I haven't done it in a really long time, but I think "They died laughing" is a 5.9 fist crack on cathedral's north end. (I think) |
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Theres nothing as big or as rad the the half moon crack, p4 /5 of vertigo on cannon. its wide, exposed, and squeaky-clean. not really a quick pitch to get to, but worth the trip. |
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Half Moon crack will not teach you anything about wide crack climbing since it is a low angle, easy affair, maybe 5.7.They Died is fingers ans thin hands (maybe 1 full hand) |
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I've already done Half-Moon, and while fun, I agree with John that it's not terribly challenging. I'm not sure I'd downgrade it 5.7, but hey, I haven't put up any routes around here like he has... I also agree that it's not really great for a wide education since there's not really that much actual wide climbing on it - it is relatively easy to layback large chunks of it. |
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I would also consider coming up to the Adirondacks if you are interested in some schooling of the old school, off-width variety. At the Spider's Web in Keene Valley there is a great testpiece called "Eternity". It goes at roughly 10d, and it takes nothing smaller that a #3 Camalot. Also on Moss Cliff in Wilmington Notch, there is the ultra classic "Creation of the World". At 11a, this route will swallow you whole for 5 solid pitches of thrutching, chicken-wingin', and knee scummin'. On Poke-O-Moonshine, there's "Phase III, The first pitch to Fastest Gun", and the challenging "Great Dihedral". Those three routes clock in from 9++ to 10b, and all pack solid blows to the body. Hope that helps, and look me up if you need any more beta. |
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The first pitch of Gamesmanship at Poke-O has a lot of hands plus size climbing too. |
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Hey Coz and John john strand wrote: i think this was done 3 ? years ago or so and 12+The offwidth at Farley has been done. Jon Lavalley did the FA maybe 5 years back and called it 13b which I think is accurate for this. But a grade for a route like this is hard to really pinpoint. Since Jon did it, it has been toproped once and lead once. It is a really rad route and totally worth the effort. Its actually easier to work the bottom by aiding up a bit placing a high cam and working it like this rather than top roping it. When it comes time to lead the route it is perfectly safe and that cam can be placed on lead with some creativity. Jay |
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Chris Duca wrote:I would also consider coming up to the Adirondacks if you are interested in some schooling of the old school, off-width variety. At the Spider's Web in Keene Valley there is a great testpiece called "Eternity". It goes at roughly 10d, and it takes nothing smaller that a #3 Camalot. Also on Moss Cliff in Wilmington Notch, there is the ultra classic "Creation of the World". At 11a, this route will swallow you whole for 5 solid pitches of thrutching, chicken-wingin', and knee scummin'. On Poke-O-Moonshine, there's "Phase III, The first pitch to Fastest Gun", and the challenging "Great Dihedral". Those three routes clock in from 9++ to 10b, and all pack solid blows to the body. Hope that helps, and look me up if you need any more beta.I've been thinking about doing a warm-weather trip to the Daks for a while; I've heard only stellar things about the rock y'all got up there. At 4 hrs+ from Boston, though, with plenty of good climbing w/i 2.5 hours, and a girlfriend in Hanover, it's hard to get up the gumption. Wasn't Creation of the World in Uncommon Ground? If so, before hopping in the car I'll just have to watch that a few times to get psyched. |
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jason conway wrote:Hey Coz and John The offwidth at Farley has been done. Jon Lavalley did the FA maybe 5 years back and called it 13b which I think is accurate for this. But a grade for a route like this is hard to really pinpoint. Since Jon did it, it has been toproped once and lead once. It is a really rad route and totally worth the effort. Its actually easier to work the bottom by aiding up a bit placing a high cam and working it like this rather than top roping it. When it comes time to lead the route it is perfectly safe and that cam can be placed on lead with some creativity. JayMy man Bob Scarpeli says no wide crack is harder than 5.12. 'course he is fucked and all his "11's" are at least 12B . Bob told me in '83 that the SQUAT was no more than 11- !!!! THE MAN |
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there's some wide bouldering on the north shore. up 128 near redrocks . and the wide on the upper tier in farly is pretty stout, but there's closer wide than farly. |
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host2 wrote:... but there's closer wide than farly.By that, do you mean the brick crack at an undisclosed urban location that's featured in your personal photo? (Where in the Square is that thing, anyway?) |
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host2 wrote:there's some wide bouldering on the north shore. up 128 near redrocks .got any more details for this? Always looking for hard cracks, especially of the wide variety. |
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jason conway wrote:Hey Coz and John The offwidth at Farley has been done. Jon Lavalley did the FA maybe 5 years back and called it 13b which I think is accurate for this. But a grade for a route like this is hard to really pinpoint. Since Jon did it, it has been toproped once and lead once. It is a really rad route and totally worth the effort. Its actually easier to work the bottom by aiding up a bit placing a high cam and working it like this rather than top roping it. When it comes time to lead the route it is perfectly safe and that cam can be placed on lead with some creativity. Jayhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JU1g9USJQ8g |
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Walking the Devil at rumney is pretty much a boulder problem leading to an easy chimney, but its a full on up side down #6 cam adventure... |
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oooooohhhhhhhh, I want to play! |
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NH you know where the wide is ! |