Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers, Steve Amter, Avi Steinburg, Dave Burke, Charlie King & Tanya Bok
Page Views: 7,615 total · 39/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This climb has a wide variety of climbing, including chimney, crack, face, and slab, making it interesting and challenging at the grade.

A topo for this is available at toofasttopos.com/free/
Pitch 1 (50 feet, 5.8) -- climb up past two bolts and a few traditional placements to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (120 feet, 5.10a) -- make a hard move to the right, clipping a bolt. Then climb up past one more bolt to a nice crack. Continue up the crack, staying to your left at a bulge, where the crack widens to a short chimney. At the top of the chimney bear right and climb up past a few more bolts to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up on a slightly run-out, but easy terrain to a series of bolts. Continue along the bolts until the climb bears left to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (140 feet, hard 5.9) -- climb up and right past bolts and interesting face climbing. After about 5 bolts, the climbing eases off a bit to lower angle climbing. Pass over a diagonal crack which takes some gear and continue up to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor and rap rings. Note that this anchor is one of the rappel stations for the descent.

Pitch 5 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up past two bolts and into a chimney. The chimney narrows to offwidth as you climb higher and face holds appear on your left. Move on to the face and continue up to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.

Descent:
-From the end of pitch 5, rappel 100' to the anchor for pitch 4.
-From the pitch 4 anchor, rappel straight down about 80' to an anchor on your right.
-Rappel from this anchor 50' to a large ledge with vegetation.
-Scramble down and climber's left about 30' to a small flat area by a large tree. Hidden about 10' to climber's left is a rappel anchor on a mildly exposed slab.
-From this anchor, rappel 95' straight down to the steep gully, where you will find yet another anchor.
-From here, rappel down the gully about 70 feet. Scramble to your packs.

  • While the descent can be done with a single 60 meter rope, it is advised that you use two ropes for this climb in case retreat is necessary before finishing pitch 4.

Location Suggest change

Approach: while walking up the hill toward Sheepshead, keep an eye out for a cairn marking a trail heading to the right. After a minute, the trail deposits you into a wash which heads up toward the right side of Sheepshead. Continue up the wash until you are between Sheepshead and Carnivore Pinnacle (the next formation to the right). You will see the bolts for the beginning of Stampede on your left. Continue up 50 feet or so to a large dead tree. The route starts in a gully to the left of this tree.

Protection Suggest change

Gear and bolts, approximately 50% bolt protected. All anchors are bolted.

Photos

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