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Elevation: 1,045 ft
GPS: 33.16174, -117.05339
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 94,612 total · 428/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

The Place Suggest change

This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived.

Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.

Getting There Suggest change

Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a
Entrance is free during the week.

Call ahead to ranger station day of to acquire climbing permit (760) 839-4345. Climbing is only permitted during park hours & number of groups/people allowed to climb each day is limited. Work with the rangers, pack in pack out, and do your part to keep access to this crag open!

40 Total Climbs

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Location: Dixon Lake Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Dixon Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 18
The Flake
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 116
The Y Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
Butthole Express
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 17
Eagles Peak
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
Hairy Airy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 56
The Shoulder
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Jam Crack
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Overhanging Buckets
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Blood and Roses
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 24
The Roof
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
Double D
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped…
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Triple D
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Prowe
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Overhanging Face
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Flake Y Crack Area
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Y Crack Y Crack Area
 116
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Butthole Express Y Crack Area
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eagles Peak Eagles Peak Area
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Hairy Airy Y Crack Area
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Shoulder Roof Area
 56
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Jam Crack Roof Area
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Overhanging Buckets Eagles Peak Area
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Blood and Roses Prowe Area
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
The Roof Roof Area
 24
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Double D Roof Area
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Cho… Eagles Peak Area
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Triple D Roof Area
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
The Prowe Prowe Area
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
Overhanging Face Eagles Peak Area
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Dixon Lake »

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