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Nov 29, 2008
I thought that this was a basic stand high in your aider move. If you're lassoing drilled pitons and bolt studs, or throwing up your aider with hooks on the end trying to hook the anchors you might as well bring a long stick clip. But to paraphrase Bridwell you used a cheater stick.
And to quote Andy Kirkpatrick, "Cheater sticks as the name implies are cheating...but sometimes they can come in very handy, sometimes bypassing ground when you find yourself out of your depth, or when you have to retreat (note: No party should ever embark on a steep wall without a cheater stick).
The problem with having a fully functioning cheater stick (rather than a makeshift one that needs to be dug out and put together) is that it robs you of the chance to push yourself on hard aid, bypassing moves that you may be able to do, but dare not. Often its only doing such moves that you progress in aid climbing."
Lassoing and throwing aiders is in the same vein.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Dec 4, 2008
|Well damn aren't you an expert. As you can see I'm standing on a ledge that is virtually even in height with the bolt no luck top steppin there buddy. I could have placed a few pieces to by pass this reachy bolt but that would have wasted time, aswell as put me in danger of a ledge fall(with a mending ankle might I add). lassoing is not like using a cheater stick if you ask me, cheater sticks are way more acurate.|
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 5, 2008
|It is a stretch to compare lassoing a bolt to out of reach hooking or lassoing gargoyles - bolts aren't natural features.|
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Nov 23, 2009
|From here you make a very solid hook move on the right then clip the bolt, easy peasy.|
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