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Big Cottonwood Canyon this Weekend...?

Original Post
Lyndsy · · Laramie, WY · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

My climbing partner and I are going to be in SLC this weekend and thought we would check out Big Cottonwood, it is a good time of year to climb there? Where are some of the best climbs...is it a place a guide book is needed for navigation?

Tyler King · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,385

A guide book is really helpful, but there is a ton of info on MP.com It will be great this time of year unless it rains or snows! What kind of climbing are you into? Overhung sport, trad, slab? Difficulty level you guys are looking for..? BCC has a lot to offer in the sport department and a lot in the trad, although my opinion on trad is to go to Little Cottonwood Canyon if that is what you are looking for.

Lyndsy · · Laramie, WY · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

We have the capablites to do both sport and trad but more interested in trad. Looking for anything in the 5.8-5.10b or c range. Really love good sustained hand and finger cracks. What is a good climbing shop in SLC...near the BCC? About how are is the LCC from the BCC?

Rick Miske · · Orem, UT · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

IME on 3300 S is a good store and not too far from the mouth of BCC. LCC is only a few miles south of BCC.

Tyler King · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,385

It is about 5 min from the mouth of BCC to the mouth of LCC. BCC is quartzite and LCC is granite. The cracks in BCC are broken and pretty inconsistent, and generally harder to protect. LCC on the other hand has a lot more sustained and consistent cracks.

For LCC some of my favorites are:
- The Coffin 5.9, - The Green-A 5.9 (5.10a direct start is superb), - Touch up(both pitches as one) 5.9+, - Satan's corner (both pitches as one) 5.8, - Gordon's Hangover Direct 5.9+, - Pentapitch/Sasquatch (1st pitch 5.6, to Sasquatch 5.9 as pitch 2, third/fourth pitch 5.5 (the third pitch is just scrambling until you need to rope up), pitch 5 (5.8) *basically replace P2 with Sasquatch, I have heard mexican crack 5.10a is good but I have never climbed it.

For BCC i would recommend:
Goodro's crack 5.10c (can also be TR'd), Psychobable 5.10c (other good trad/sport lines on this wall), penitentiary wall has some great unique trad lines (jailbait 5.9+ is a great line, minimum security 5.10a looks awesome too), Outside Corner 5.7 (JHCOB wall has other good trad/mixed lines)

Check these climbs out on MP.com to get a feel for the climbs before deciding. Personally I love LCC trad and the options are nearly endless! I'll most likely be out saturday morning if I don't go to the City of Rocks and I can find a partner who is not in "the City"!

Bad Sock Puppet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 510

Little cottonwood is a perfect place for fairly easy trad. Just be careful with your gear. There has been a lot of gear stolen up there these days.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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