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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | R. & J. Rossiter |
| Page Views: | 3,167 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 5, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Permit require to access? Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through Aug. 12? - each year
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map, Micky Mouse Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit to visit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Description
On Micky Mouse Wall, almost directly below the Red Dihedral, you will come to a series of bulging flakes rising up and to the left, below a short, right-facing corner. You will see a bolt in this corner, some 30+ feet off of the ground.
P1: 5.10c, 130 feet. Climb up the flakes on good holds, but some questionable rock. Clip the bolt on the corner with a 1' sling and head left onto the face past the arete. This is the first crux. Face climb up past 5 more bolts, which are liberally spaced. You climb on the left side of the arete and on the face for quite a way, passing another crux. Near the top, you will break even farther left to reach a lower angle crack system which is unprotected but easy. Belay up top from gear, some 20' to the climber's left of a small tree.
P2: 5.10a, 45 feet. Look directly up to see a thin seam which becomes a left-facing corner with a roof. Go up the seam/corner to the roof then step to the right into a nice section of handcrack. Reach the next ledge & belay from solid gear.
To descend walk left (West) to a set of cold shuts and rap 80 to a lower ledge. On the lower ledge, walk left (West) and scramble down at the end of that ledge to another set of cold shuts. Rap 80' to the ground.
P1: 5.10c, 130 feet. Climb up the flakes on good holds, but some questionable rock. Clip the bolt on the corner with a 1' sling and head left onto the face past the arete. This is the first crux. Face climb up past 5 more bolts, which are liberally spaced. You climb on the left side of the arete and on the face for quite a way, passing another crux. Near the top, you will break even farther left to reach a lower angle crack system which is unprotected but easy. Belay up top from gear, some 20' to the climber's left of a small tree.
P2: 5.10a, 45 feet. Look directly up to see a thin seam which becomes a left-facing corner with a roof. Go up the seam/corner to the roof then step to the right into a nice section of handcrack. Reach the next ledge & belay from solid gear.
To descend walk left (West) to a set of cold shuts and rap 80 to a lower ledge. On the lower ledge, walk left (West) and scramble down at the end of that ledge to another set of cold shuts. Rap 80' to the ground.
Protection
The first pitch is bolted, but that's 6 bolts in 130 feet. The first is 35' up and above some 5.10a climbing.... A #4 Camalot and a few stoppers could be placed below it to eliminate what is otherwise a runout.
The anchor above the first pitch will be yours to build. You should have a cordalette & mixed gear. The rock is not so hot on the ledge.
P2 is a thin crack and a few hand-jams. Stoppers (some thin will be helpful) and tiny TCUs + a 2.5" cam is the pro. Again, you build your own anchors, so have a few pieces with you.
The anchor above the first pitch will be yours to build. You should have a cordalette & mixed gear. The rock is not so hot on the ledge.
P2 is a thin crack and a few hand-jams. Stoppers (some thin will be helpful) and tiny TCUs + a 2.5" cam is the pro. Again, you build your own anchors, so have a few pieces with you.
Photos
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