Governor Dodge Rating Standards

hey homie! psyched to see you at the park at some point. i can imagine that block tearing off would make anyone a little skidish to something. I think you'll be psyched when u get up there to get on the new stuff for sure. let me know if u want to go sometime.

Also as the discussion started i agree with Steve that we need more people on the problems for sure! goes without saying. i think the boulder bash will help with some of that, as well as the fall weather. I think we've done some solid work to set up a great season though, that is for sure.

On the standard side I suppose the obvious new change is the first V7 in the park which would presumably be the standard for the grade 'Illusions of Paradise'.

werd

Made a few PDF's from the info on the site. How do I post an attachment?

-Gary

Garyasdf wrote:Made a few PDF's from the info on the site. How do I post an attachment? -Gary

Here they are. Basically a compilation of mountainproject posts. Could be helpful

Barrel Ridge
DIB & Boat Landing
Lonely Boulders & Box Canyon

Backbone/Plan B

Thanks for uploading the PDF's, Brian! Got Box Canyon, a huge three pager that I merged with the Lonely Boulders for a massive 6 page PDF, so you can take off Lonely Boulders if you want.

To Brian, Sweatpants, and whoever else:

Working on the Plan B and Backbone Ridge PDF and I've got a question. O.K., many questions. On the map, climb #3, Separation Anxiety, looks like it is on the same boulder as climbs #4 and #5. However, climb #9, which looks (on the map) to be a separate boulder off the the right of the Separation Anxiety problem, is listed in the descriptions as being on the Separation Anxiety boulder. Is this a misprint?
Can I assume that climbs 3, 4, and 5 are on the Separation Anxiety boulder and climbs 9 and 10 are on the Split Personality boulder?

Where is Huston's Arete located? The only description is "Far Left of Plan B" What two problems is it between? This will help me to locate Things Just Got Harder (next to Venom) and Venom (next to Huston's Arete).

Am I correct in thinking that problem #15, Nameless, is the Nameless Arete that Trail Crew, Midwest Hardcore, Mr. Clean, Battle of the Bulge etc. refer to? Or is it closer to #12, as Early Bird states? (Early bird sez it is a few feet right of Mr. Clean, and Mr. Clean sez that it is left of Nameless Arete and Sandstone Violence). Following is the arrangement of climbs of the Backbone that I compiled from the context, so probably some mistakes in here, the only thing that doesn't make sense is the Early Bird entry. How can it be a few feet right of Mr. Clean if there are 7 climbs between it?

Leaning Rock (11)
(Climb 12)
Early Bird. Quote: "Starting on the arete just Left of route #12 in the JJs topo. Also a few feet right of Mr. Clean."
Vitamin V-Less (13)
Sandstone Violence Bloc (14)
Nameless Arete with Wright's Arete on same Bloc (15 & 16)
Scarete. Quote: "On the Bone Ridge between problems #15 and #16 there is a huge boulder problem that has no info on it. "
Midwest Hardcore
Trail Crew
The Prostrator
Mr. Clean
Battle of the Bulge
Dangle / Left Out
(Climbs 17 & 18)
Picasso Bloc (20 - 22)

Thanks!
Gary

Hi Gary. Part of the fun for me is trying to figure out what the hell line I just climbed when I get home and look it up online, but I will try to give you a hand here. On googlemaps there is a sattelite feature that is cool, also a topo feature. So using these, you can see the Backbone Ridge essentially runs from Northwest to Southeast (more north-south than anything). Where you walk up from the Group B camp is right in the middle notch between the north and south sides, coming up from the east side. So you can think of the climbs as being in one of four quadrants: the northwest side (Sandstone Violence etc.) the northeast side (Get out of Dodge etc.), the southwest (Split personality and Press it Out areas), and the southeast (Huston Arete etc.). You walk up from the camp in the middle of the south and north split. Make sense?

So if memory serves (this would be a whole lot easier to do while walking around the area than sitting at my desk), the order of the climbs (with a couple ommisions and probably at least one inaccuracy) on the NORTHWEST SIDE is as you walk north from the notch/trail:

Leaning rock
Early bird
Mr. Clean
V2 (#12)
Vitamin V
Sandstone Violence
Nameless Arete
Midwest Hardcore
Trail Crew
Product of the Southwest
Battle of the Bulge
Dangle
Left out
Scarete
Wright's Arete
Face left of Wrights arete
ETC ETC from JJ's topo

On the opposite site (the NORTHEAST SIDE) as you walk north:

Massacre direct
Foothold massacre
Mr. Longarm
Mrs. Longarm
Hangman
Highly Executed/Full Execution (variations)
Guillotine left
Guillotine right

The following are all on the Dodge boulder:
Get out of Dodge
Internet Predator
Arete V2 (not sure what they're calling it now)
Slug, ticks, etc which are various lines on the same boulder

And finally:
Between rock and hard place

On the SOUTHEAST SIDE (after a bit of a walk where you go right past High Anxiety and the V4 face (climbs 4 and 5 on JJ's topo) are (all on the same face):

Hustons Arete
Venom
Things Just got Harder

To answer your question though, Huston's Arete is not between anything, the face is a bit of a stand-alone face.

On the SOUTHWEST SIDE:

As you ask, #3, #4, and $5 from JJ's topo are basically on the same formation and yes, Split Personality (#9) and the V4 (#10) are on a seperate boulder, on the same face.

Then comes the Smack Cracks, the new Dyno, and Ender (in no particular order as I haven't done much here). If you keep walking along this side of the ridge to the south, you get to the Warmups (3 of them) and then Press It Out, and Press It Out direct (variations on the same arete). All 5 of these climbs are very close to each other and basically at the south end of the ridgeline.

Again, it would be easier to do this in person at the ridge, but that's a start. I would be happy to look at what you've done and try to help with inaccuracies.

wow. well said. you are bored today sir!

Sweat-- yup, slow-ish day at work, how can you tell? If you see anything missing or inaccuracies post it up. I did not include a couple climbs like Prostrator because I'm not sure where it is supposed to be. I never looked specifically for it anyway-- for all I know I climbed it and had no idea what it was at the time.

Thanks Chris!

I was wondering about the orientation of the climbs because under description for the Get Outta Dodge problems, it says North Side. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I've taken your compass directions and thrown them in the PDF. I put Prostrator next to Mr. Clean b/c that's how it's listed in the directions.

I listed all the climbs pretty much exactly as in your list. I'll send it to Brian to post. I also cut and pasted your directions to Huston's.

Thanks a lot, and let me know if there are any major mistakes.

-Gary

prostrator is between mr. clean and early bird. But really its just too painful to even bother with...It would be a good route for someone who likes pain, but isnt strong enough for S.V.