Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Utter Butter on a Rope
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in White House Wall
|
|
*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Behind the Times T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
|
|
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Honey Go Climbing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Joe Bauer's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Political Prowness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Archbold/Vernon Phinney 89' |
| Page Views: | 1,721 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | ERolls on Jul 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Vernon Phinney's book says this is 3 pitches and 5.9+ near the top. IMO trying to complete this climb as written in the book is difficult to understand. Start on P1 of Political Prowess following a right to left hand crack. Rig the second piece of pro on a quickdraw as a runner can fall into the crack and cause nasty drag. Gain the top of the flake then continue straight up a smaller crack/seam protecting with smaller gear. This will top out at the belay for P2 of Political Prowess. DO NOT belay here...instead traverse 30ft left to a gully where you'll find a verticle crack on the left where you can build a hanging belay to eyeball the entire second pitch. Climb the wall following a series of criss crossing crack/seams exactly half a 60 meter rope length to a slender pyramid horn. Here you must decide to belay again or bail(recommended) After this point rock quality degrades from excellent/very good to crap. (lichen and auto sized flakes destined for the talus heap) If you do continue straight up 5.9 you'll gain a 1.5ft ledge to belay for the last pitch. All climbing up to pyramid horn is fun, well protected and nothing harder than 5.8. The crux is the 2 rope rap.(rope eating flakes) Rap only to the first hanging belay then climb up and left where you have several options for the last rap to the ground.
Photos
- No Photos -
1 Comment