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First Lead Climb

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,668

I think my first lead was "Rockhouse" on Half Moon Rock in the Red River Gorge ... in 1976?

Ed Pearsall & I borrowed a rack from one of the student teachers in our high school, but I remember having trouble finding gear wide enough for the crack. We thought the crux was being calm and confident enough to get up high enough to get in any gear. I guess I've been carrying around that attitude toward leading for 30+ years.

I think climbers have long since abandoned Half Moon to the hikers and sport rappelers. Funny how the popularity of certain crags waxes & wanes, even though the beauty of them is timeless.

Greg Speer · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 55

First Sport lead: Coloradoditty (5.6), Jurassic Park near Estes.

First (and only so far) Trad lead: This was supposed to be Left Standard (5.3) on McGregor Slab near Estes. In that there is very sketchy beta for McGregor we got on the wrong route which turned out, we later figured out, to be Camel Toe (5.9+). I led the first and third pitches. The 1st pitch, which actually is mixed starting with 4 bolts, is supposedly 5.7 but felt easier and already had a good tree belay anchor to clip to. I don't think we were still on Camel Toe after that first pitch. The 3rd pitch felt no more difficult than the 1st. My partner, Barry, gave me a passing grade on gear placement and belay anchor.

Dustin Roth · · Lincoln, Nebraska · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

First Sport Lead: Dead Can Dance (5.9) on Avalon in Boulder Canyon

First Trad Lead: A 5.8 on Blair II in Vedaewoo with a 5.7- Second Pitch also first multi pitch

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485

First Sport Lead: Oct. 2004, Brother Stair, 5.8 (Left Flank, RRG)

First Trad Lead: April 2008, Direct East Face 5.6 R, First Flatiron. I had ever even placed gear before, my partner only once, and we had a non-leading third. Climbed on a borrowed rack of 30-year old hexes, nuts, and a couple rigid friends/chouinard cams, one leader and two simul-climbing followers. Started out sunny & 45, halfway in we caught a snow flurry, and temps dropped to around 30 with 35+ mph gusts. It got cold, and my LaSportiva Katanas strangled my feet, leading to a little bit of numbness that stuck around for a few months. Barely made it off before dark. A bit of a baptism by fire, but, needless to say, I wanted more.

Sorden · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 95

East Slab (5.5) on the Dome (Boulder Canyon.) Great beginner route except it cannot be TR'd from the bottom with one rope. It has everything: crack, face, flakes and an easy but fun overhang. There's an easy 5.5 start but the 5.7 start is better and more direct. This was the first trad lead for quite a few people I know.

Wayne DENSMORE · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 5

First onsight sport lead - 2nd pitch of Buried Treasure at Tonnere. Did Road to Isengard, and Lothlorien at The Watermark after top roping them, but that's different.

First lead fall - on the well protected Twilight Time at Tonnere.

Michael Ybarra · · on the road · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 85

My first lead was a few weeks after I started climbing: After Six in the Valley, 5.7. I had followed one pitch, done some topropping and taken an anchor building class. In other words, I was woefully under prepared. Dropped stuff, had to rerack while climbing because I didn't have enough biners--basically a full-on Gumby show. Showhow I made it up, although my partner didn't. We came back the next week and climbed the whole route and climbed it again the next day because we dropped stuff we wanted to retrieve (including his approach shoes, which forced him to go to dinner in his climbing shoes the night before). I've thought of soloing After Six in the four years since but that first pitch still scares me.

J C Wilks · · Loveland, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 310

First lead, 'Atomic Knee Drop' 5.6 for the name.
Second lead, 'Yee Haw' 5.6 to celebrate.
Third lead, scared myself because I didn't own enough pro on 'The Dihedral 5.6' and I considered quitting until I talked to Todd Skinner after a program who told me: "You have to promise me to make this your sport, but you can't just say it, it you have to mean it!" ...'and buy more pro'.

LIV Veraldi · · Lone Tree, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 495

Bolted - Cracker Jack (5.9) Clear Creek Canyon -- felt bold that day.

Deaun Schovajsa · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 220

Benjammin 5.9- in the South Platte, circa 1986. My partner and I had only passive gear and borrowed a few big hexes to lead it. Sick!

Kevin McLaughlin · · Colorado Springs · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,540

Fly on a Windshied , 5.10 b I think. Enchanted Rock , Texas. Whee.

Eastvillage · · New York, NY · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 80

My first lead climb was Dirty Chimney, 5.0 in 1970 at the Gunks.

Tim C · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 215

My second climb I lead some easy 5.6 slab just to get the hang of it before my partner would let me go on to harder stuff.

acd · · New York, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 5

No Picnic, 5.4, the Trapps. Nice intro to roof climbing at the Gunks.

Isaac Therneau · · Rochester, MN · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 50

My first sport lead was "Manic Impression" 5.10a in the Red River Gorge, followed shortly by "Funkadelic" 5.10b. I had been climbing for 2 mo. and my brothers asked me if I wanted to try leading. Didn't have a clue so I went along with it and now only remember beginning the climb, my brother yelling something about don't fall making the clip because you'll deck, and than having my feet back firmly on the ground. First trad lead was "Church Bowl Tree" 5.10b in yosemite after top-roping it. Still haven't taken a lead fall on gear and haven't taken any big ones sport climbing either...

J C Wilks · · Loveland, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 310
Tim Stich wrote:I usually don't mention that first free solo before I discovered people climbed with special shoes and ropes. (shudders) It was also in Austin near the Urban Assault Wall. Some 50ft. system of ledges up a corner to a loose scree top out with bushes and clawing for life. Did it alone and promptly lost the memory of doing it for years. PTSD?
Come to think of it I had a similar experience immediately after a beginner class I took. I free soloed Texas Flakes 5.4 at E Rock in a pair of jogging shoes a couple of years before I learned how to lead. Not advised!
England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270

My first lead, and outside climb ever was a short 65' granite slab (10c) to impress a girl. I lead it again just a couple of months ago. I have no idea how I did that.

Bad Sock Puppet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 510

First Lead - Creature Feature (5.9+) Red River Gorge, KY. Such a freakin awesome climb that even pros hop on it!

Tanner Mitchell · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 100

First sport lead - Putt Putt, Toot Toot (5.7, 3 or 4 bolts) - South Seas Area of Rushmore, SD. It was a pretty straight forward lead, but it was nice to finally lead something outside of the gym.

First trad lead - Broken Crack (5.6)- Duncan's Ridge, N Colo. Toproped it first, placing some gear, then cleaned it and lead up. I should have put a longer runner on my first piece though - that sucker pulled up and out as soon as I weighted the rope to be lowered.

Stonyman Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785

First decent trad. lead was Knife Crack 5.9+, Griffin Falls Ala.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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