Don't steal my draws on the Noode

Please, please climbing community, don't steal my draws on Noodlers Nightmare at Castlewood Canyon. I have been working this proud line for years and I am so close to sending, I have decided to leave the draws in place.

I may add another bolt at the pumpy crux (as soon as I figure out how to install bolts).

FYI to all: I have found the first two cruxes can be overcome with a double reverse gaston into an egyptian figure-four. I think this beta should be out there for all to enjoy....

Oh my gosh Lee. It appears that both you and Alex Hannold are bringing in a new era by climbing in a realm that is pushing the envelope of human potential.
With your addition of this line, along with the other last great problem, Little Devil, Castlewood has become a world class destination area for all true hardmen and women.
Hats off to Mr. Smith, who has entered a realm that all of us mere mortals could only aspire to achieve!

How many belay slaves have you gone through so far working this one Lee?

Kateri, more than I can count. They just don't understand my unrelenting devotion to this magnificent route. Kinda like Harding on the Nose.

The Noodle, as I affectionally call this triumphant line, has ruled my life for years. When I finally redpoint, I will become whole.

Anybody know the phone numbers of all the climbing mags?

Lee, I will be making A road trip out that way in several weeks. If you need a belay slave for a few days, to try to get this sick line sent. Let me know. I would be proud to be part of your project.
Robert

Ahhhhh, a DOUBLE reverse gaston. I've been trying it with a one and a half this whole time!

Lee, when you learn to install bolts, can you add a few extras for me? This route is way beyond my current ability, but I would like to begin to work it as safely as possible, i.e., no chance of falling more than a foot or so (it is a slab after all!).

Once I get into shape and learn the technique required for hard slab routes, I plan to make this route a lifelong goal. What brand and model of shoes are you using? Do you tape up your fingers for the tweaky crimps? How many one arm pullups will I need to do just to think about this beauty? How did you learn to do a double reverse gaston? Please provide all of the beta for each and every move so that I can begin to construct a complete beta map.

Thanks for your help!

Train, train, train everyday until you barf and your fingers bleed. Tape--oh my yes, I tape my ankles, shins, hands to the elbow and a little on my nose. Read "Rock Warrior's Way" before every attempt. Yoga, Zen and pure thoughts help.

BTW, the double reverse gaston into the egyptian figure four is for style point only. You can do the cruxy sequences with a stem.

I have to keep my shoes secret until I send so my sponsor can spray my greatness to all the mags and trade shows. But I will give you a clue: They are really sticky.

Please let us know what shoes you are using as soon as you send it. I sure hope you have Peter Mortimer out there filming this amazing effort.

Here in the East, climbing activity at the Gunks has come to a virtual standstill while we await word on your effort. Please keep us informed, and post video of the send!

From the looks of this photo it appears that Lee has been noodled by the Noodler. Rest in pieces dear friend and neighbor. :-(

I was his belayer on that horror show. He died a good death, no sniveling, pleading, America-hating leftist spray, none of that. I told him not to try it feet first, but he was cocky.

Regrettably, there were few items of interest in his pockets, and no money; that sucked. Oh well.

At least he had the foresight to get an exact clone made before this ridiculous venture, so we will still have "Clone of Lee" hanging around.

Well if he died, who got the damn draws???!

I hope his clone is a good climbing partner since we were supposed to go out this weekend!

i think he is faking it. or the pic is photoshopped. part of his send ploy.

Going after those draws is a death wish man!

He probably would've made it actually if I could've performed rescue breathing/CPR on him, but his breath was soooo bad I had to stick one of my sweaty socks in his mouth to stop the odor instead.

Kateri, Clone-of-Lee is looking forward to climbing with you this weekend.

Tracy, is this payback for the Ancient Art pic on your birthday post?

Mike, I wondered why I had sock breath yesterday morning.

You guys made me laugh so hard my spleen ruptured, but it is OK now

I love you guys! (sniff).

Ah yes, the old Lee-clone ruse eh?
I suppose you're going to try to blame those chipped holds and drilled pockets on the Lee-clone?
You almost had me going there until I rapped the line and saw evidence of the dirty deed.
I filled your drilled pockets with epoxy, pilfered the hangers and scarfed your draws.
When I say that "I" filled your drilled pockets with epoxy, pilfered the hangers and scarfed your draws, I mean to say that the Tom-clone filled your drilled pockets with epoxy, pilfered the hangers and scarfed your draws.
What's next? Chipping Little Devil?

No worries Tom (clone) I will rehanger the bolts, re-chip the holds and still get my plaidpoint of this ultimate challenge.

FFABADG--First Free Ascent By A Dead Guy! Call Hot Flashes!