Training

Ok,

I'm in Illinois for another 89 days, not many gyms super close to me and actual rock is even further. So0o0o0o, lately I've been trying to prep myself for when I get to Co by swimming laps at the local pool. I don't have a ton of time to hit the free weights and was just curious what you guys are doing to keep in shape and/or get in shape.

Any suggestions, or just maybe your own personal agendas would be awesome.

And just incase any of you feel consumption of beer is a very integral part of training....I got that one down :)

Cheers.

John Langston wrote:Seth, Just come to Colorado in the best possible shape you can be in. Don't worry about the climbing specific stuff, that'll come in time once you start spending 200 days a year on the rock. Keep swimming, sure why not. Running keeps you light. Whatever, get some exercise and try not to bring a gun to work before you move.

I told my boss so long as he doesnt bother me when I'm on this site we will remain ok.....hahaha

But ya thanks for the advice John. man 200 days a year on the rock, sounds like heaven.

find a tree branch, or if you choose to be high tech a pull-up bar-- and do 30 reps. It helps build up endurance and keeps the pumpage away.

The real secret to being in top climbing shape isn't contact strength or strength to weight ratios, its all about having a good dose of DSB (Deadly Sperm Build-up) going. Leave it alone, and by the time you get back you'll be a rocket. Most of the hotshots here know this well but won't admit it.

Mike Lane wrote:The real secret to being in top climbing shape isn't contact strength or strength to weight ratios, its all about having a good dose of DSB (Deadly Sperm Build-up) going. Leave it alone, and by the time you get back you'll be a rocket. Most of the hotshots here know this well but won't admit it.

Hahahahahaa....like the old cartoons where someone held onto a firehose and shot up into the air????hahahaha!!! Great, I won't get that image out of my head for awhile!

Seth,
For me climbing is pretty mental, meaning i don't do climbing specific excercises but if i know/feel strong i can commit myself to harder routes and moves.

here is what works for me: All weights are three sets of whatever weight I can do 8-12 reps, when i reach 12 reps for all three sets then i add a little more weight
mon & thurs- 5 min run warmup
Chest- flat and decline bench/ or with dumbbells
Abs- Crunches on physio ball (4 sets of 35-50), side bends
Shoulders- military press, laterals
Tri- dips (three sets of whatever till failure), tri pulldowns

Tues & Fri- 5 min run warmup
standing leg press (4 sets)
Back- pull ups- starting at 10 then reduce number till one
pullup (10,9,8,etc)
Abs- Vertical knee raises, medicine ball side twists with legs
elevated
Shoulder Shrugs
Bi's- Standing dumbell curls, preacher curls
Wed- Cardio on treadmill or eliptical- 30 min

4 evenings a week a 2.5 mile run

Weekends- Climbing, hiking, beer/scotch

Josh Brown wrote:Seth, For me climbing is pretty mental, meaning i don't do climbing specific excercises but if i know/feel strong i can commit myself to harder routes and moves. here is what works for me: All weights are three sets of whatever weight I can do 8-12 reps, when i reach 12 reps for all three sets then i add a little more weight mon & thurs- 5 min run warmup Chest- flat and decline bench/ or with dumbbells Abs- Crunches on physio ball (4 sets of 35-50), side bends Shoulders- military press, laterals Tri- dips (three sets of whatever till failure), tri pulldowns Tues & Fri- 5 min run warmup standing leg press (4 sets) Back- pull ups- starting at 10 then reduce number till one pullup (10,9,8,etc) Abs- Vertical knee raises, medicine ball side twists with legs elevated Shoulder Shrugs Bi's- Standing dumbell curls, preacher curls Wed- Cardio on treadmill or eliptical- 30 min 4 evenings a week a 2.5 mile run Weekends- Climbing, hiking, beer/scotch

Josh,

Thats hardcore man!! I'll have to see what of that i can adapt and fit into my schedule. Right now I swim about 14-16 laps about 3-4 times a week just to keep the cardio up. I have some access to some simple free weights, nothing big, but I'll give it a shot. Even light weight can/will help with endurance.

Build the finger strength to body weight ratio. Although it helps to build strong back and arms (pullups, etc.), that extra 10 lbs. on your fingers is a killer. I climb much better the lighter I am, even though I may be stronger when I have more mass. Sometimes its not about muscle strength, its about being able to hang while clipping (finger strength) or making some really crimpy balancy moves.

Seth,
yeah, i work at a college and have 1 and 1/2 hours for lunch and a great fitness center 100yrds away so i'm really lucky. my thoughts are that even some training/excercise are better than none. enjoy colorado, i had a blast out there in july!

Build a crack machine. Two scaffolding planks bolted together to whatever width you like. I prefer #3 camalot size. Built a base and attach the planks to it with a hinge. Balance the whole thing against some rafters or hang it from a tree. 10 laps at 45 degrees overhanging on big hands X 5 reps. Get psyched. A crack machine hangboard is even easier to build and takes less space and materials. Pullups on fist jams is excellent training for the 'voo.

Swimming is great for climbing I've found...works your core and your pull muscles. If you happen to have an open lane and the short "diving" platforms (not sure of the technical name) they use for swim meets - do pull ups on them. You will be amazed what a forearm pump you can get if you keep varying the position of your hands. I'd also emphasize some power intervals in your swimming routine. Good to have general endurance, but also work some power while you can.

The other thing I found about weights is that they can build strength and power, but so much of climbing is static. Meaning being able to grasp a hold and lock into that position for long periods. Try incorporating this into any workout.

Buy a fingerboard and do pullups and lockoffs on it.

Thanks alot guys!!! I'm gonna keep up the swimming and maybe try and rig some finger pull up bar over a doorway or in the garage.

Any other home made Ideas would be cool.

Dude, you are going to get to Colorado all worn down with severe tendonitis and have to sit out six months recovering.

I say just stick to the beer and chillax until it's time to load up the U-Haul.

:)

Not So Famous Old Dude wrote:Dude, you are going to get to Colorado all worn down with severe tendonitis and have to sit out six months recovering. I say just stick to the beer and chillax until it's time to load up the U-Haul. :)

sit out? lol no, take pain pills, tell tendonitis to take a hike and push :)!!! I have 20 yrs of pent up hardcore outdoors stuff to work out hahaha

However, I will stop and chill with a beer AFTER swimming, pull ups, and other crazyness lol.