Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Scott Baxter and John Gault |
Page Views: | 5,225 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Mar 23, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
P1) Climb corner that moves up and curls left at the top with the crux at the end. Belay in an alcove off wide cams. (5.10a)
P2) Climb up and out an overhanging corner on hands to where you do wide hands and fists out the left side to a belay in a tight constriction. (5.10c)
Pitch 3) Climb up the "Baxter 5.8" chimney above. This will feel harder than most other 5.8's since it's more like 5.9. Pull over a chockstone and then continue up. Straight up is supposed to be like 5.10, out left is unprotected 5.8 chimney. I had to go down here because the snow was getting the rock all wet.
Location
Book of Friends is approached from a pulloff near the old fish hatchery about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up the canyon. I'll have to check my notes for mileage. You can see the Book of Friends formation up on the north side of the canyon.
Approach by walking on the road towards where the hatchery was, then crossing the creek to the right. Get into a big gully, then up, up, up, with a bit of nosing around to get to the right formation. First pitch is a right-facing book with a nice-looking crack in it.
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