Mountain Project Logo

5.12 route recommendations in Boulder Canyon

Original Post
Paul Hunnicutt · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 325

I've been trying a lot of 5.11+/5.12 climbs in Boulder Canyon lately and quite a few seem to be one move wonders.

Any recommendations on routes that are a bit more sustained or interesting? Gear or Bolts.

Thom Engelbach · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 15

I haven't tried it, but how about The Spoils on Bell Buttress?

Jay Perry · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 15

Plan B (Upper Security) is really fun....

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

If you want something a little more techy there are a few routes on Oceanic wall in Upper Dream Canyon that check in around 12-. All of them will keep you working/guessing for at least a handful of moves.

I'd also put in a word for Empire of the Fenceless and Tell Tale Heart on Easter Rock.
Thanks for the question I'm curious to see what recommendations you get.
cheers,
BA

Jeffrey Arthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290

Definitely "Tell Tale Heart" at Easter Rock. Pretty solid all the way with a good crux. I liked "No Doze" at Clock Tower. I thought "Warf Factor" at the Overhung Wall, Lower Sport Park was great. It's all naturale as far as I could tell with a 45 degree overhang to a tricky crux at the lip.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

I gotta go with Atlas Shrugged on Castle Rock. GREAT route and not that scary, more PG13 than R I think.

jack roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 0

Here are some good ones;

The Ticket 12a is one of the best of it's type IMO
Grand Inquisitor 12a
Arms Bazaare is one of my favorites @ 12a It isn't an "R"
Cujo Tranquilizer is like 11+/12-

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105

I'd back these guys up on ideas like The Spoils, Grand Inquisiter, The Ticket. Mile High Comic Crack on Blob isn't real sustained, but it is trad and fun. A route that doesn't get done a lot is Kangaroof on the Third Elephant;gear placement, exposure on a small crag, technical challenge, way fun trad.

Rob Kepley · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,005

Never a Dull Moment at Castle Rock is superb, I'll second, third Arms Bazaar too. Also try Epiphany at Bell for some spice.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "5.12 route recommendations in Boulder Canyon"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started