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 ADVANCED
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Here is the aforementioned 5/16" lead bolt removed from Face Lift.  It is pictured here alongside a brand new 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.  (A 12mm bolt is only slightly larger than 3/8".  The Triplex is actually a 3/8" bolt with a stainless steel sleeve.)
3/8-inch Star Dryvin (Nail + Sleeve) bolt removed from atop "T-Crack."  Brand new, properly placed in hard rock, this beauty had just 1,400 pounds of shear strength (MUCH less in pull-out).  In medium to soft rock (such as ours), this had functionally no strength. <br />
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The good news at Fire Crag is the pair of Petzl Bat'Inox capsule-style, glue-in bolts on the very top of the crag. These bolts, if properly placed, are rated to 50kN each. With a 40-foot piece of static cord, these can be used to back-up any top-anchor at the crag.
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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
May 18, 2009

shouldn't you drill out a groove and place these flush?

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 12, 2013

Matthew.....I have the same question/concern as Steve. Shouldn't there be a groove created for the bolt to sit in so the placement sits flush with the rock surface?

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 12, 2013

I agree with both of you. These two were not properly installed...but they're still the "good news" of the anchor situation at Fire Crags.

I haven't been out to the crag in more than a year but have been told that these were actually chopped and replaced (not sure with what).

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The good news at Fire Crag is the pair of Petzl Bat'Inox capsule-style, glue-in bolts on the very top of the crag. These bolts, if properly placed, are rated to 50kN each. With a 40-foot piece of static cord, these can be used to back-up any top-anchor at the crag.

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 8, 2008
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