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Shake N Bake
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 27
votes
Routes in Stronghold Dome
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Abril Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Apache Tears T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Bee Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Big Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bounty, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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End Chimney, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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End Chimneys, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Greasy Gizzards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rheen's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Rheen's Arete Direct Start T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Shake N Bake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stage Fright S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stage Fright Left Variation S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stand, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Welcome to the Stronghold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Baker, Mike McEwen 1972 |
| Page Views: | 4,868 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Davidson on May 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Where's the crux ?
Ha ha ha......
The crux is not blowing beets at the top of the first pitch.
A rarely done squeeze/offwidth.
Good warm up for 2nd pitch of Abra.
Or maybe Abra is a good warm up for this ?
I believe the first lead was Mark Axen but someone should check on that. It has more the feel of a Dave Baker lead. But Mark pointed it out to me in 1976 and told us (Jim Haisley and I) that we had just bagged the second ascent. We were down from Flagstaff for a Beanfest (actually not really a beanfest yet, still a Rich Thompson Climbers Fest) and it was early afternoon and it looked like an obvious line. I think I was wearing blue RRs.
I recall wanting more gear as I grunted up it.
I also recall that even though it was early/mid October, the sun was blazing hot and baking the face as I shaked away 20 ft from the last sideways 2 point 11 hex.
The name is right on.
Save it for a cloudy day in cool weather.
Ha ha ha......
The crux is not blowing beets at the top of the first pitch.
A rarely done squeeze/offwidth.
Good warm up for 2nd pitch of Abra.
Or maybe Abra is a good warm up for this ?
I believe the first lead was Mark Axen but someone should check on that. It has more the feel of a Dave Baker lead. But Mark pointed it out to me in 1976 and told us (Jim Haisley and I) that we had just bagged the second ascent. We were down from Flagstaff for a Beanfest (actually not really a beanfest yet, still a Rich Thompson Climbers Fest) and it was early afternoon and it looked like an obvious line. I think I was wearing blue RRs.
I recall wanting more gear as I grunted up it.
I also recall that even though it was early/mid October, the sun was blazing hot and baking the face as I shaked away 20 ft from the last sideways 2 point 11 hex.
The name is right on.
Save it for a cloudy day in cool weather.
9 Comments