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No Star Tuesdays

Original Post
Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415

The no star club is underway.
Why look for the Wasatch Select when you can rejuvinate an old classic? The only rule of our little group is this: Overall pitch count must be GREATER than the number of stars you accumulate throught the day. If you warm up on the first pitch of the Green A, (3 stars) you must climb at least 3 zero star pitches to get back under par.

No Star Tuesdays will be at the green-a gulley this week. plenty of options up there:

this is almost the place 11d
suprise ending 11b
goodro's nightmare 5.8
green-a (pitch 3) 5.7
st. alponso's pancake breakfast 5.9+
why me? 10d

fun starts around 4pm, just come on up.

bring a hat (to keep the gravel out of your hair), long sleeves (unless you want road rash), your bad shoes (so you don't ruin your new ones), beer (to wash the dirt out of your mouth), bbq brush (for pointless cleaning). and jock strapes w/ cup and/or catchers masks are optional.

questions?

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646
Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

Jon, my wife doesn't climb. But I called her in to read about the Zero Star Club and then see your post. We both LOLd. You rock.

No disrespect to your starless club, Zac. Sounds like kind of a fun idea.

EDIT: That may have sounded gushing for a comment on a single post. To clarify, Jon's "picturesque" comments are a rockin' contribution to MP.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

If I lived on Planet Ooo-tah I would be down. But alas...

--Marc

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646
Shawn Mitchell wrote:Jon, my wife doesn't climb. But I called her in to read about the Zero Star Club and then see your post. We both LOLd. You rock.
haha, glad i could provide some amusement. ;)
tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023
Marc Horan wrote:If I lived on Planet Ooo-tah I would be down. But alas... --Marc
Isn't that because they only have 3 star climbs in CO?
Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415

I think some of us might try to get up there at 3 or so just to get the ball rolling.
come and join. How many of you have done the green A, gordon's hangover and/or wheels on fire?
how many have done mission to moscow?

come on out and tick off a few routes that weren't even on your ticklist. if you want I can try to scrape off *most* of the loose stuff for ya.
PM me with any questions and I can give you my cell number.

zac

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Zac Robinson wrote:The no star club is underway. Why look for the Wasatch Select when you can rejuvinate an old classic? The only rule of our little group is this: Overall pitch count must be GREATER than the number of stars you accumulate throught the day. If you warm up on the first pitch of the Green A, (3 stars) you must climb at least 3 zero star pitches to get back under par. No Star Tuesdays will be at the green-a gulley this week. plenty of options up there: this is almost the place 11d suprise ending 11b goodro's nightmare 5.8 green-a (pitch 3) 5.7 st. alponso's pancake breakfast 5.9+ why me? 10d fun starts around 4pm, just come on up. bring a hat (to keep the gravel out of your hair), long sleeves (unless you want road rash), your bad shoes (so you don't ruin your new ones), beer (to wash the dirt out of your mouth), bbq brush (for pointless cleaning). and jock strapes w/ cup and/or catchers masks are optional. questions?
Zac, I like your style. youve been in SLC for what, 2 years? I respect a man who works from the bottom on up. someday in about 10 years you'll be doin 3 star routes! done lizzie borden yet?
Todd Glew · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 45

i saw yall out there yesterday, i was the guy with the green shirt, my names todd. maybe ill see yall around again soon. maybe you would be interested in learning about the RLRCAFPOU. (real live rock climbers association for people of utah) its the club i started i am the president and only member. cheers

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
tenesmus wrote: Isn't that because they only have 3 star climbs in CO?
Isn't what "because they only have 3 star climbs in CO?"

There are plenty of zero-star climbs in Colorado. I live here because there are lots of climbs in the area, period.

--Marc
icsteveoh · · salt lake city, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 470

any photos from the outing?

Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415

NST's first meeting.

Who knew the Green A Gully held so many gems? The first 6 attendees yesterday received a free club t-shirt.
The agenda was as follows:
We opened up with Goodroo's Nightmare (5.8). The first pitch was an excellent (and surprisingly clean!) tight hands in a right facing corner for approx. 40'.


- photo courtesy of Andrew Burr

After overcoming some scruffly ledges we encountered the namesake of the route. The OW/squeeze which apparently gave Harold Goodroo fits.

- photo courtesy of Andrew Burr

This pitch was followed by the third pitch of the Green A (5.7). You may be thinking "But Zac! the Green A gets 3 stars! that can't be good for your rule." We came to the decision that the star rating for the Green A only includes the first pitch. What percentage of people lower off of those chains at the top of the first pitch? That is all I have ever done prior to yesterday.

- photo courtesy of Andrew Burr

This is Almost the Place (11d) was next on the list. An excellent looking right leaning crack just around the corner from the the first pitch of the Green A. This one was burly! The crack itself was not too dirty, but a good clean foot was impossible to come by. The BBQ brushes came out a bit, but not quite enough to call the route "clean." I may head back this weekend or early next week to finish the job. and go for the redpoint? It has more sustained OW than most other of the "wide cracks" found in the Wasatch.

- photo courtesy of Andrew Burr

Stormy Resurrection (11b) saw a few ascents, but luckily, this superb route only gets 1 star from the Ruckmans. We were fairly safe after the three zero-star pitches at the beginning of the day.

St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast (5.9) was attempted, but aborted due to the quick evacuation of daylight. A variation we aspire to call St. Alphonso's Catfish Dinner may be in the works.

- photo courtesy of Andrew Burr

A few ice-cold PBR's from the soft igloo cooler saw us back to the cars safely despite the lack of headlamps.

The final numbers:
6 people.
6 T-shirts
(nearly) 24 pitches
2 stars
18 Blue Ribbons.

- photo courtesy of Andrew Burr
Travis Larsen · · Ogden, UT · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 26

you guys need to get up to ogden and climb on some of our dirty loose trad climbs if your looking for a quality tuesday

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

You guys had T-shirts made and everything! Good work!

--Marc

icsteveoh · · salt lake city, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 470

man, zach don't let me bail on this next time. Or maybe do it when us working guys ain't working.

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,756

Fun show! I'm sure if you live near J-Tree you and the crew would be up for "off-width Friday"

After reading your post I couldn't help but wonder what happens to the stats when you come across (unknowingly) some unsung gem? It's happened to me. Go do a route knowing it 's starless choss but walk away wondering why it doesn't get more traffic.

So your NST is based on published stars? What do you do if it turns out fantastic?

Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415
icsteveoh wrote: Or maybe do it when us working guys ain't working.
this one was essentially from 5pm-10pm. what more can we do?
I am sure we will have some special edition no-star-tuesdays on some saturday's this fall.
Steve, as long as it is Tuesday in your heart, it doesn't matter what the calendar on the wall says.
Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415
susan peplow wrote:Fun show! I'm sure if you live near J-Tree you and the crew would be up for "off-width Friday" After reading your post I couldn't help but wonder what happens to the stats when you come across (unknowingly) some unsung gem? It's happened to me. Go do a route knowing it 's starless choss but walk away wondering why it doesn't get more traffic. So your NST is based on published stars? What do you do if it turns out fantastic?
The point of the club isn't so much to do horrible routes, but rather to do routes that never get done. We are psyched when we come across a line that is 2 or 3 star quality, but has not seen an ascent in a few years most likely because it was ignored in the guidebook. I guess if we can spread the word and get everyone else off of the trade-routes for a few days then our mission is accomplished. That and drinking beer. Cold Beer.

Ice cold beer.
Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415

oh, and also I am just completely making this up as I go along.

ErikK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 155

Nice work fellas,
Got one month left up here in Pinedale,
YEEEEEEEHHHHHAAAAAAA
then I'm def. in for finding some
more Wasatch gold.......

Cheers from the land of oil fields and rednecks,
oh ya, and the Winds!!!!!

Rob Duncan · · Salt Lake City · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 165

Count me in next week!

Rock on

Happy Pioneer day tomorrow everyone!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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