5.9 crack and crux roof above.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Colchuck Balanc… > W Face (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a)

5.9 crack and crux roof above.

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From the top of Pitch 7, move right about 40 feet along a nice ledge.

John entering the flaring chimney on Pitch 7. In his Cascades Rock guidebook, Blake called this the "region's hardest '5.8'".

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blakeherrington

Jul 9, 2008

“5.9 crack and crux roof above.”

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There is a pinch at the end of the roof (Pitch 5). Place a piece here so that the rope does not get stuck. I also noticed a place for a small cam (blue alien sized) in the horizontal crack in the lower third of the photo, which could pull the rope out of the pinch.

This belay station is where its at

John at the balanced rock at the top, trying to figure out the moves. The V1 boulder problem goes up the spine in the photo. You definitely would not want to fall. We decided to throw the rope over the top of the block and then took turns climbing to the top of the block on a belay.

This is looking up at the long hand crack and giant roof above from the 4th belay

John starting off Pitch 5, which starts by following the flake up to the roof.

Me not so stoked to grovel in some off width

Looking down from the belay at the top of the Pitch 4 corner.

Following the 5.9 corner, which was the top of P1 for us.<br>
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The steep 5.10+ crack, 5.7 chimney, and 5.9 corner link into one 55m pitch.

Approaching the West Face of Colchuck Balanced Rock from the basin below.

Anna sending the wild roof pitch.

From the top of Pitch 7, move right about 40 feet along a nice ledge.

5.9 crack and crux roof above.

John entering the flaring chimney on Pitch 7. In his Cascades Rock guidebook, Blake called this the "region's hardest '5.8'".

A nice stopper placement at the 11+/12- crux (Pitch 6). There is also a good place for a medium-sized cam (either orange metolius, 0.4, or 0.5 cam would work) right above the crux move.

Looking down at the nice hand-crack of Pitch 6; this crack felt 5.10a to me. I took this photo from the location of the 11+/12- crux.

Looking down the "Enduro Corner" on CBR

Midway up Pitch 1. 5.7 rock and tree climbing to get you to the good stuff above.

The belay at the top of the Pitch 4 corner and under the giant roof is on a nice ledge, with 2 fixed nuts and 2 fixed pins, and a couple of optional small cam placements.

The start of the descent down and around the south side of the peak back to the basin below the west face.

The enduro corner on Pitch 4. No move is harder than 5.10 but it is so sustained with no great rests, so it earns its 5.11a grade.

Looking up from the base of Pitch 4. To access the corner, either go left of the tree (5.8) or right of the tree (5.10b finger crack).

Thin slabby corner on Pitch 3.

Wide crack near the top of Pitch 2 along the left side of the pillar.

10c thin hands splitter at the start of Pitch 2.

Looking up from the ledge at the 5.6 terrain to the top. It is a bit more than a ropelength to the top from here, so I would advise doubling the rope over and simulclimbing it. There are enough steep sections with potentially loose blocks and some lichen on the rocks that I appreciated staying roped up rather than soloing to the top.

John on the wild traverse beneath the roof (Pitch 5). It is somewhat difficult because the feet are not so good and awkward if you are wearing a helmet (I took mine off when I followed it).

Top of P1 (or P3 in Select Guide)

The crack at the top of the roof (Pitch 5). It takes good gear.

Crux pitch. The start to the next off-width/wide-ish pitch start visible above crux boulder.

Low on West Face

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