climbers suck

Justin Roth wrote: Would you not say that 5.12 was kind of a cutoff for "elite" climbers in the late 80s/early 90s? I

Oh, no way. I was "sending" 12a/b in the early 90s, and I have never been anywhere close to an "elite" climber. I think "5.12" has just always been a magical number for climbers because it's the first threshold of extremely hard climbing where training, strength, technique, and commitment all come together. But I agree with Bob that in the early 90s, 5.13 and 5.14 were what the "elites" were climbing.

I always thought that anything 5.10 or over should be........well, 6 point something. Maybe it's just cuz I'm a math geek, anything over 5.10 was always about the same hardness for me ...... ie impossible (or aid).

I certainly don't diss sport climbing, in fact I'm truly impressed! I see the pictures you guys put up of whole pitches where every move is something that I would work on as a boulder problem for 1/2 a day! Makes me realize much is possible, just not by me anymore.

Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: Oh, no way. I was "sending" 12a/b in the early 90s, and I have never been anywhere close to an "elite" climber. I think "5.12" has just always been a magical number for climbers because it's the first threshold of extremely hard climbing where training, strength, technique, and commitment all come together. But I agree with Bob that in the early 90s, 5.13 and 5.14 were what the "elites" were climbing.

Fair enough. I stand corrected.

I'm having a hard time thinking of a climb harder than 8c (5.13c)in 1990. Maybe Action Direct? but that was way ahead of its time and certainly not indicative of how hard folks were sending.

Oops. I stand corrected. Off on my ratings and my history. My wife always tells me that my memory is about five to ten years off. Maybe there's something to that...

Bob D'Antonio wrote: Grand Illusion, Sugarloaf (CA) Tony Yaniro 8a (5.13b)

That thing felt harder than 13b to me.

cummon Ken... you can do this ~ pull up to the TOP now..!!!!!

kirra wrote:cummon Ken... you can do this

Maybe with a winch.

see that wasn't so difficult was it..??

Nice job Ken..!! - now let's go climbing (:

wow you cant be dissing the sharma now, ..unvarified 15...cause no one can do them..and.who has an actual recording of a 15 put up?, some of these posts seem very poetic and beautiful..why..so someone wont quote you wrong..they always do any way

Bob D'Antonio wrote: People suck in every sport and the internet really doesn't help the situation...at least back in the old days you based your opinions on personal meetings and real human beings that had real names...ah...the good old days.

Actually the internet used to be a great community before it was inundated by the masses.

Allen Freeman wrote: Actually the internet used to be a great community before it was inundated by the masses.

HA!!!

I imagine that people who knew it when it was used for the sharing of research and not for entertainment and commercial purposes feel that way. I thought I'd read that there was some talk about sort of re-creating that network "Internet II" or something, as a private network that would sort of get back to those research/academic roots.

Allen Freeman wrote: Actually the internet used to be a great community before it was inundated by the masses.

Probably because the user community was small enough to avoid the self-perceptions of anonymity that generally lead to anti-social behaviors.

remember "those days" Tony..? (:

James M Schroeder wrote: Isn't that the case with everything though... I believe the internet started out as a military project back in the 80's. Didn't you see Wargames? "Would you like to play a game?"

Well, I think that the department of defense played a role in funding/advancing it, but I thought that the ARPANET and RAND networks linked research institutions and universities. Now, maybe that research was often used for military purposes.

But, I'm no expert on internet history. Wargames was a good movie. I actually saw it on TV the other day - really seems cheesy by today's standards, though.

The Forbin Project actually is more convincing treatment of the theme and held up to the passage of time better I think.

I remember trying that trick from Wargames - the one with the pay phone and the pull tab. In my possibly erroneous memory, it worked. What's this now about 'good old days'?

metrozen wrote:I remember trying that trick from Wargames - the one with the pay phone and the pull tab. In my possibly erroneous memory, it worked. What's this now about 'good old days'?

When I was a kid I shorted payphones with a paperclip. It did work...

But making a super computer freeze with a game of tic-tac-toe? No. I did it with a nested loop of newton-rhapson iterations for 4th-order derrivatives of motion on a model of a geared 5-bar mechanism once though... and got a special "I killed the Cray" award for that stupid stunt from the CS department at Purdue.

Dude.

Were you in Tron?

In Chattanooga, the locals are so nice. Though, I have never ran into a mean climber, the worst I met is some woman thoughtlessly pulling a pad out from under me on some v3, for her friend. I topped out, but it annoyed me...