Colorado: Road Trip

Hi the wife and I are heading out to colorado for a month long road trip in July. In this we plan to spend a few days climbing.
So looking for some venues that would suit, and also any guide book suggestions: The latest I could find was published almost 15years ago.
So the ideal.

Venue: Anwhere over colorado, but prob more North than South.
Sport crag: No trad; gear to heavy to fly with.
Moderate:5.6-5.10
Compact: ie get a few climbs done in a few hours not lots of hiking from climb to climb, don't mind a bit of hike into venue.
Single pitch that you can get back down from anchors on a 60m rope.

Have checked routedatabase but first hand advice is much appreciated.

Thanks

check out table mountain in golden, mostly sport from 5.7 to 5.11 all very close with about a 15 min approach.good luck.

Devils Head and Monestary are the two best sport places that fit your criteria. Both require a 30-40 min hike which is well worth it.

Rifle mountain park is a great place to check out. There's a new guide book out through wolverinepublishing.com that includes a number of new moderate routes and a lot more of the local areas. If your looking for more than just climbing in your visit, Glenwood Springs is a great to stay with the hot springs pool, white water rafting, biking, and more... Have a great trip!

Clear creek canyon or boulder canyon. Both are majority sport on good granite with tons of separate crags to choose from. Also maybe check out the shelf road (limestone). lots and lots of sport single pitch not very long approach to crags, camping if needed, but a long drive depending on where you are coming from.

The guidebook situation isnt that great there is colorado climbing but it tries to cover too much. my suggestion is pick an area or two and buy the guidebooks specifically for the areas.

Monastery is almost all sport, just be prepared for some sharp crystalline rock. Devil's Head is a fun place, though not many bolted moderates under 5.9 - though there are some great 5.10's there. Boulder Canyon will have plenty of sport, including moderate routes, and the ratings are generally softer there (more so for the newer routes).

Enjoy your trip!

Avalon in Boulder Canyon should be on your list of places to visit.

See, I told you you'd get a much better response here! You didn't mention the part about sun exposure though.....

Send me an e-mail, I know of some undocumented stuff right up your alley on much, much better stone than the Monastery (which should be on your list too.)
Others:

• The Dark Side at Shelf Road
• Lime Creek (a few)
• Little Eiger (& others) at Clear Creek
• 11-Mile Canyon

Thanks all above for time and effort, responses much appreciated.

Mike Lane wrote:See, I told you you'd get a much better response here! You didn't mention the part about sun exposure though..... Send me an e-mail, I know of some unregistered stuff right up your alley on much, much better stone than the Monastery (which should be on your list too.) Others: * The Dark Side at Shelf Road * Lime Creek (a few) * Little Eiger (& others) at Clear Creek * 11-Mile Canyon

I will do that and thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Sorry, gotta do it. After all, it's where I learned/am learning the sport---> Castlewood Canyon State Park, a 25-30 minute drive southeast out of south Denver has hundreds of routes, has lots of .9 and .10s, and some morning and afternoon shade depending on which side of canyon (north, south, east, west; it has all four) you are on. Oh sure, you better be fleet of foot when the buzz worms are out but you won't be far from medical help should you 'git bit'. Wendell Spire at Castlewood is a short hike from the Southeast entrance and has a fun variety of routes. The Dungeon is cool no matter what time of year or time of day. Tom Hanson's guide book is available at the visitor's center ($12.00 or $15.00? not sure how many pounds that is)... You have to see the variety of scotch available at our English pub down by the Denver Art Museum. Supposed to be the largest selection in the US. Pretty pricey though. I say! Bring some extra pounds... Spend lots of money while you are here and no rioting over football pitches (or whatever they are called)!!

independence pass is great in mid summer! fits all of your criteria and is among the most beautiful places i have ever been. Independence Pass Rock Climbing II by Tom Perkins (www.independencepassrockclimbing.com) there are many other fun rest day activities surrounding. look me up if you make it this way. would be happy to point you toward some of my favorites (and lend a rack/partner if you want to climb some of the cracks or longer routes)

scott

Bring some Oban along and I'll guide you at the secret spot!

Definitely hit The Pub at 13th and Cherokee. I took my severely English brother-in-law (he hates the Union Jack and thinks England should revert back to St. George's cross) there, and he was amazed at how much it reminded him of home. He was so happy he bought me 10 shots.

Mike is right on with Eleven Mile Canyon in July. It has reasonably high altitude and the river is nice for swimming, so it is quite pleasant even on warm days and a dip can cool you off enough so the heat feels good. The Front Range has great climbing, but it is all about chasing shade (it does get really hot) and avoiding crowds. In July, hit the mountains and higher elevations for perfect temperatures.

You have a pretty great exchange rate to deal with, so gas won't be too bad (plus you get gallons . . . not liters! What a bargain!) for your trip. Places like Independence Pass between Buena Vista/Leadville and Aspen with higher altitude and more seclusion than the Denver/Boulder/Front Range scene will be worth delving into. Many of the small mountain towns have an abundance of what you are looking for, and can be ideal for short visits where you don't need 500+ sport routes* for years entertainment. If you haven't been before, the San Juan Mountains are littered with great little places and friendly people. Visit any climbing shop when you reach a town and ask for directions/info. Mountain Project can certainly get you started in researching.

• If you do go a bit south, stop in the San Luis Valley/Penitente Canyon area on the way (high elevation - but still hot from 11:00-5:00) for great sport climbing.

Anyway, have a great trip . . . I live in Denver, between DIA and the mountains, and am more than happy to lend you guidebooks for climbing areas throughout Colorado. Shoot me an e-mail if you'd like to borrow some guidebooks. Cheers!

P.S. Watch out for afternoon thunderstorms . . . they develop quickly and are quite violent - even at the sport climbing areas!

I second the following recommendations (in order of my personal preference for this time of year):

1. The Monastery - yes, 30 min hike in, but you can camp at the crags. BEAUTIFUL scenery, great view of Long's Peak, excellent moderate routes (esp. Tabula Rasa and The Hot Zone!) I've never experienced mosquitoes there. Won't get too hot in July, plenty of climbs in the shade. Also puts you close to Rocky Mountain National Park.

2. Elevenmile Canyon - easy, cheap camping near the crags. Lots of great moderates. You will have to contend with some bumpkin campers, but hey, nothing's perfect. This area will be hotter, weather-wise.

3. Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon - the great moderate routes abound in these two canyons. They are closer to Denver and Boulder, and so will see a lot of traffic from other climbers. There are some camping options near Boulder Canyon, but none as near to either of these canyons as the camping is to The Monastery and Elevenmile. If you're looking for a motel experience, however, these would be better bets. I would stay in or near Golden, and visit the mountaineering center. Tons of things to do on rest days, if you're so inclined.

Barring the heat factor, these places will provide the most quality moderates in a cluster, like you requested. There are a lot of other good crags up in the mountains that have some good moderates. It will be hot at Shelf Road, though there are TONS of great moderates with easy camping. The same goes for Castlewood Canyon.

Good luck and safe travel!