Hey Jbak, it was pleasant yesterday with a high in Tucson of 96 and a breeze. A good bit of the climb never sees sun including the crux. The belayer could be pretty warm on calm day as they are in the sun after noon. If you got an earlier start than we did it would be fine until one pm on all but the hottest days.
The crux mono move really detracts from the route for me. I was just waiting to hear the pop of my tendon. Wish they had created holds that were closer to the grade of the moves below and above. As much as I would like to do it I might have to take a Bob-point on this one. In fact if there was a bolt right at the crux I might even do it as a A0 move because the line is so outrageous.
Vince also suggested doing some middle finger training to prepare it for the serious stress you will be putting on the digit. The climb is cool enough that I might think about it.
Thanks Jbak. Yes. The unnatural hold in question is a tendon popper and it takes away from the fun of the climb. If you do a lot of mono pulling (as is so common on the Lemmon)kidding, you might give it four stars. The climb pucker factor is so high and the exposure so cool that it is worth doing as an aid line. I don't know if I will redpoint it or not but I am glad I went bolt to bolt. In fact I think I would aid this route before I would drive to Box Canyon, but I have never been there.