Looking for partner to climb technical routes in the San Juan Mountains

I am looking for a weekend partner to climb easy to moderate technical peaks in the San Juan mountains. I have a "to do" list of goals for the summer that include mostly the obscure but am open to other ideas as well. I am most interested in the peaks near Silverton, Ouray, and Telluride. Hopefully a partner has a good foundation of technical skills, is comfortable in an alpine enviornment, is in good physical shape, and enjoys garbage rock and iffy gear placements.

hey Peter, I am interested in climbing alpine routes in remote locations. I live in Boulder, which routes do you have in mind?
I have some experience climbing in RMNP, lead on gear around 10+ - sometimes 11-.
Petro

Would you be interested in doing the ridge from Wilson to El Diente some time? I've been wanting to do that, and although I live in Phoenix, I'd be willing to drive up to do that. Let me know.

The Wilson to Diente traverse is a great outing. I did it last summer and had a great time. Having finished the 14ers, mostly to make my parents proud, I don't have much desire to repeat that particular route. If you do go for it, wake up early and go from Diente to Wilson. I believe this to be the easiest way as you don't have to carry a rope to rap. The hard up climb is about 5.0-5.2 ish and can be soloed without much problem.

Petro,
You sound like a more competent leader than myself. The peaks I'm looking at this summer are mostly mid fifth class 5.2-5.8 like some of the spires on Sneffels, El Punto, and the NE Face of Wildhorse. With your skills a multiday trip into the Weminuche wilderness could yield excellent results. Look at the East faces of Pigeon and Monitor as well as many other more obscure. Let me know if you are heading down this way anytime during the summer. Good luck.

Peter Blank wrote:The Wilson to Diente traverse is a great outing. I did it last summer and had a great time. Having finished the 14ers, mostly to make my parents proud, I don't have much desire to repeat that particular route. If you do go for it, wake up early and go from Diente to Wilson. I believe this to be the easiest way as you don't have to carry a rope to rap. The hard up climb is about 5.0-5.2 ish and can be soloed without much problem.

I'm in Grand Junction and climb around 10- on gear, though serious exposure on bad rock would probably be humbling. I'm very familiar with the San Juans, but have only done a few summits (Kismet, Teakettle and Ohio(?)) if you know that little one). This weekend I'm going through on my way to New Mexico, and will come back the same way. I was planning on a short overnight backpack trip on Saturday, and I haven't thought as far away as the return trip. I am incredibly flexible, being in limbo between college and grad school. We could meet up in town as I come through. Interested?

Andy

Hi Peter, sometime in mid summer, july or august, I'd like to do a 4 day trip into Vestal Basin to do the north faces of Vestal (wham) and Arrow, along with something on one of the Trinities (north face West T?) depending on time and weather obviously. I lead trad 5.9 and have climbed all those mountains by the standard routes before.

Andy,
I don't currently have any plans for this weekend though if the snow pack gets cold enough at night to freeze I'd like to do a couple of snow/ice/rock chutes to the top of peaks. One is a chute I spied a couple of years ago in the Sneffels range, I don't even know the mountain name. I pointed it out to a friend of mine who climbed it the next weekend with someone else when I went out of town. Asshole. Anyway they reported a relatively long section of good ice that took screws and steep snow. I would also like to climb Dallas peak this time of year if the snow is firm to make the approach to the summit block faster than the scree slog I believe it to be later in the summer. I would like to climb it either from Telluride or from Blue Lakes Basin. Let me know if either of these options sound ok to you.
Peter
970 596 9032

Colin,
Let's get in contact later on in the summer. I currently have a 10 day trip planned into the Weminuche with a friend over the 4th of July. All of the North Faces in Vestal Basin are good. Arrow was a good outing. Also look at the East Face of Electric and the saddle between West and Middle Trinity. Both excellent as well. Like I said, let's keep in touch.