BD vs Metolius Hexes

Hey,

I am pretty new to the site and relatively new to leading. My modest rack currently consists of C4's (0.75-3) as well as a full set of DMM wallnuts. Right now I am contemplating a set of hexes. I was hoping to get some feedback on what people prefer, Black Diamond's Wired Hexes or Metolius Curved Hexes? I don't have any experience placing curved hexes , however, I like the curve hex design and am seriously contemplating a set of them over BD. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I know you asked specifically about the wired hexes, but I am a big fan of the Wild Country Chocks. They are slung with slings eliminating the need for draws. While the wires do have their own positives I have found the WC hexes way easier to deal with.

Buy the three largest Wild Country hexes and save the rest of your money for more cams.

i say, shit-can your #12 and #13 stoppers, and carry only #5,6,7 hexes.

I'm a fan of the Metolius curve hexes myself, but I've only placed the 3 or 4 largest ones. I think those are useful. Other than that, cams. Don't need the smaller ones IMO. You can get 4 for around the price of one cam, and sometimes they can be used where a cam won't work.

So it sound's like you guys think a full set would be a waste...what about this:

backcountry.com/store/MET02…

Or is that even overkill...should I just save my green for cams, booze and hookers?

The trouble with climbers these days is there simply isn't enough cowbell.

I'm a Metolius man.

James Beissel wrote:Buy the three largest Wild Country hexes and save the rest of your money for more cams.

Good advice if you prefer cams.

I have a full set of curved hexes and love them. I use them all.
They seem to wiggle right in a tight placement where a BD just fights you.

WC's are probably the favorite of many even though many folks hate hexes. I think this is because they do take some thought/time to place properly. IMO, when you get that bomber hex of any size, nothin else will fit quite as well.

-E

Alpine: Hexes in the BD Equivalent size 6-9 seem to be the most versatile, because the range covered by setting them camming or sideways seems to cover the broadest common-use range (.75-3 BD Cam size). Smaller sizes are typically covered by large stoppers or small tri-cams or cams (which are actually relatively light). Larger sizes aren't often needed on alpine routes.

I would avoid wired hexes.

i'm a fairly new leader as well, and what leading i've done has been on wallnuts, BD hexes, and some camalots and friends. cams are wonderfully easy, but i've found it really pays to toss a hex in if you can, thus saving your cams for later on in the route when you might be more pumped or wigged out. this applies doubly on more sustained cracks, where hexes make for a light, cheap, bomber alternative to carrying several of the same or similar size cams.

that said, i have noticed that the angular BD hexes do sort of fight placement when placed with their length parallel to the crack. i haven't used the WC rockcentrics or Metolius Curved Hexes, but as i consider buying gear i'm leaning toward the WC's. i like the fact that they're on dyneema instead of wire, and the metolius ones sort of scare me with all those curves.

Jason Isherwood wrote:So it sound's like you guys think a full set would be a waste...what about this: backcountry.com/store/MET02… Or is that even overkill...should I just save my green for cams, booze and hookers?

Sounds like you aren't already sold on the hex idea. Good, because hexes are really old school. I'd say skip the hexes altogether and use the money to buy doubles of cams. My hexes sit at the bottom of my gear closet now and have since the day I doubled my my cams. Good for bail gear or aid possibly, but I don't ever carry them even for that, anymore. Hexes are just a footnote in climbing history for practical applications these days.

Don't you guys know about the hex toss grapple hook method??? Geeze, you all take the fun out of gear.

I think we should ban all cams; a no cam park.

I'm a big fan of hexes, and prefer the 70 style: straight (no curve, no taper), slung about 18 inches on perlon. In conventional hexes I don't usually have anything other than #6 up to #9 (old Chouinard #6 is about 1x1.5", #9 is 2x2.5")-- unless I'm doing a "hexes-only" day.

I always cover the half-inch to one-inch range with hexes also-- just not the conventional type. I carry the long-discontinued Doltnuts on over-the-shoulder slings, and don't bother with stoppers unless they are real thin. See this

for example.

Aaron Martinuzzi wrote:the metolius ones sort of scare me with all those curves.

I feel the same way. I know they are "old school", however, in my experience I have found that they seem to fit my style of climbing. Call me crazy. I have placed "regular" hexes a fair amount during my limited leading experiences. Most of this climbing has been around the Flatirons and Eldo. I find them very useful and can really see myself placing them frequently off of my personal rack. After reading the responses I think I will forgo the full set and get larger sizes. I don't know why I am apprehensive to go with the curved ones, but for some reason I am. With that being said, I might just bite the bullet and get the Metolius Alpine set, I am sure I will grow to love them. It seems as though they will suit my needs the best.

Avery, is there any particular reason you would avoid a wired set?

Thanks for all the responses.

Jason Isherwood wrote:is there any particular reason you would avoid a wired set?

On a long, flexible sling, you can avoid carrying an extra runner and carabiner. Sometimes you can get a very satisfying "out of reach" placement with an over-the-head swing. See, for example, the aptly named Lucky Nuts.

I just noticed your BD cam sizes. If you don't have any smaller cams yet (TCUs/Aliens, etc.) then I would definitely not waste one dime on hexes until I acquired at least two small camming units.

Smaller cams are on the agenda as well. Once again, I am split between BD and Metolius. I have messed around with the new Master Cams a little and was quite impressed. However, C3s are pretty sweet as well...

When I was young (in high school) and poor, our standard rack was: a set of nuts, a set of hexes (straight-sided), and maybe 4 cams.

Now that I'm old and averse to carrying heavy weights, my standard rack is: a set of nuts, a set of cams, and maybe 4 hexes. Unless you are climbing a long crack that you know to be unrelentingly parallel or flaring, using hexes will save you weight.

On easy routes I often revert to my high school rack, especially if I'm heading up into the backcountry.

I like curved nuts but straight hexes. I also prefer slinging my own hexes with perlon or tech cord.

Mark Nelson wrote:isn't enough cowbell.

LOL!!!!!

we definately need more cowbell.

regarding size #5-7, they make good lightweight belay pieces, so you dont have to burn precious McDonald's cams (BD #1 and #2) at a belay...

about the only reason i rack those hexes, other than for nostalgia.

Hey, there's no school like the old school! There is absolutely nothing more bomber than a well-placed hex and I'd rather take a whipper that than anything else. These days I carry BD #5-9 or so, occasionally the bigger stuff, as well as a full set of stoppers and BD Cams #.3-3. Haven't tried the curved hexes myself, but I can see where they might be handy.