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Routes in Sleeping Beauty Wall
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Burly Wench, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cheshire Cat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Glass Coffin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Heather T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Life O' Riley S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Poison Apple S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prince Valiant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sea Hag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sleeping Beauty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tarred and Feathered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Witch's Promise S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mark Gay and Keith Pike 11/87 |
| Page Views: | 1,914 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Feb 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
Start below Sleeping Beauty and head up left on the low-angled ramp approach to the top of the mini slab. A good stance on top of the mini slab allows you to clip the first bolt. Watch out for a loose block at the top of the slab where it joins the headwall. From there, the business begins. Head up the constantly overhanging face above, pulling hard on small, but positive pockets. The first three bolts on this route are really close together, so watch out for the dreaded z-clip!
The crux comes around the third bolt and then hopefully you have the strength to go the distance to 4th bolt. Above the fourth bolt the climbing is relatively run-out to the chains but thankfully the climbing is on easier, juggier terrain.
Super fun route and a good introduction to 5.11- climbing at Enchanted Tower.
The crux comes around the third bolt and then hopefully you have the strength to go the distance to 4th bolt. Above the fourth bolt the climbing is relatively run-out to the chains but thankfully the climbing is on easier, juggier terrain.
Super fun route and a good introduction to 5.11- climbing at Enchanted Tower.
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