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Bolted belay at the top of pitch 6.

Id# 106143739,  Dimensions: 1125 x 1500 - View full size 

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By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 17, 2008

HOW NOT TO BOLT A BELAY-RAPPEL STATION

Here are a couple of reasons I think the bolter did a crappy job.

1. Rappelling off a single piece of hardware, huh? Not too bright.

2. ...Especially when the quicklink is a dimestore grade, made in China piece of garbage with no manufacturer's mark or a load rating stamped on the side of it. Next time invest in a legitimate company. A legitimate company will stand by their product with tons of testing (it keeps them from being sued, hey? Always a risk when their name is on the label...). And a legitimate company will publish load ratings and safety factors.

3. ... Especially when the quicklink is tri-axially supported by the two separate bolts. Quicklinks should only be loaded in line with the major axis of pull with a single fitting on each side. By having two fittings in the top of the link, you risk pulling the already weak piece of shit apart...

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 17, 2008

Actually the bolt job looks fine. The hardware needs one more thing. It would be better to add another link to the chain so you are equalizing the anchors and have two pieces of hardware. Even so that looks like a 3/8 link and even a nameless china made link of that sort will hold at least a ton of weight. The weight capacity is generally on a tear off tab that has the bar code on it.

Simple solution is to carry a wrench and another Quick Link up there and fix it.

If it is a rap station the loads are so minimal compared to a leader fall on a single piece (first bolt), you might be over reacting a bit.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 15, 2008

Eric...did you just tell someone they are wrong?
Maybe you should consider who you are telling that too before you do it?
The Person you just said it to (John) happens to be a rigger for a living. It's his job to know what types of quick-links can hold what weight's, and how they are effected by things like triaxle loading.
He's been doing it for awhile and knows what he's talking about.
Thanks for adding a comment that helped no one.

josh

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 22, 2008

I respect John's rigging knowledge but I think the rap is probably safe enough. Now, how well the sub-par grade will stand up to the weather and time are a different story.

In my opinion it doesn't really matter as the anchor should be chopped anyway.

By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 29, 2008

Why would you chop the anchors??? I never understand why slung natural pro with a climbers garbage for repel is preferred over neat looking bolted repel stations that are well camouflaged from site.

By David Stowe
Oct 29, 2008

There really is no need for any fixed gear on that route as all of the belays are easily protectable. If you are on this route you are going to the top and are not going to rap the route, therefore there is no need for bolts, pins, tat or anything else. There are plenty of bolts and other fixed gear in many other places in Red Rocks, it doesn't hurt to keep some routes clean where ever possible.

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Bolted belay at the top of pitch 6.

Submitted By: John Hegyes on Apr 17, 2008
On this route:
Hot Flash (5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c )