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Routes in Overhang Rock
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[Redacted] S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aid East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R |
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Big Picture, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Flakes of Respite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Honey Badger S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Junior Achievement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Missing Link S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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North Ridge, South Spire T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ouroboros S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Release the Hostages S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Rogue's Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Short Attention Span S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Watching S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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South Ridge of South Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Strata-Caster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Thulsa Doom S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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West Side (Story) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Layton Kor and Pat Ament, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 2,101 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Aug 6, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Closures
Details
September 4 to December 1: the NCAR-Table Mesa/Bear Trail will be closed because of Xcel electric construction work. The NCAR-Bear Connector Trail may see intermittent, full-day closures because of this work.
Per the FCC: September 5 and September 6: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail, the NCAR-Bear Connector – along with a Mesa Trail section from NCAR to Fern Canyon– will be closed because of Xcel-related electric work.
Mid-September through Mid-November: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail between Stony Hill Road west to NCAR-Bear Connector will be closed 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. This closure will help OSMP complete some of the department’s final 2013 flood-recovery work to repair trails and restore wildlife and plant habitats in the area.
Per the FCC: September 5 and September 6: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail, the NCAR-Bear Connector – along with a Mesa Trail section from NCAR to Fern Canyon– will be closed because of Xcel-related electric work.
Mid-September through Mid-November: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail between Stony Hill Road west to NCAR-Bear Connector will be closed 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. This closure will help OSMP complete some of the department’s final 2013 flood-recovery work to repair trails and restore wildlife and plant habitats in the area.
Description
This is a scary route with a (formerly) dangerous belay stance. With two good bolts at the belay (thanks, Bruce), I'd now give it 2 stars and an S rating.
This climb climbs just left of the north prow of Overhang Rock. From the boulders at the base, head left and then up about 5-10 feet left of an arete, passing a small tree. Now head up more difficult rock (5.10a) with somewhat sparse pro, eventually climbing the arete itself.
You will now arrive at a 6" wide shelf which used to be the home of a single rusty bolt and numerous terrified belayers. Now home to two excellent bolts and much happier belayers.
The unprotected crux now rises above. Traverse left 6' or so from the ledge and head up an area of shattered rock. This section is 5.10, and there is no pro until you reach a crack under an overhang, about 15' up. Lieback this crack, move left, and continue more easily up and right to the top of the face.
Now walk on up the ridge to the top, and rappel 60 feet to the notch between the main summit and the south summit. Rap east to the ground.
This climb climbs just left of the north prow of Overhang Rock. From the boulders at the base, head left and then up about 5-10 feet left of an arete, passing a small tree. Now head up more difficult rock (5.10a) with somewhat sparse pro, eventually climbing the arete itself.
You will now arrive at a 6" wide shelf which used to be the home of a single rusty bolt and numerous terrified belayers. Now home to two excellent bolts and much happier belayers.
The unprotected crux now rises above. Traverse left 6' or so from the ledge and head up an area of shattered rock. This section is 5.10, and there is no pro until you reach a crack under an overhang, about 15' up. Lieback this crack, move left, and continue more easily up and right to the top of the face.
Now walk on up the ridge to the top, and rappel 60 feet to the notch between the main summit and the south summit. Rap east to the ground.
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