Accident in BCC

From the article: "One of the climbers was preparing to repel down the rock when her rope got tangled."

I hate when people misspell rappel.

That said, I hope she has a full recovery.

Looks like from the photo, it was in the Slips area. The SL Tribune said she was "billeting near the summit of Storm Mountain"

....whatever

Sounds like she fractured her pelvis, dislocated her shoulder, had leg, knee & internal injuries. Very sorry for her, hope she recovers soon.

lucky girl to survive 80' ~ sincere wishes for a full & strong recovery

I hope she is ok. I wonder why she chose to unclip from her device to fix the rope. I hope it's no one I know... *gets on the phone*

It may be important to note that she was very intoxicated. So much so that her friends would not allow her to drive to the climb. But they let her climb like that. Great friends huh

Chris Wilcox wrote:It may be important to note that she was very intoxicated. So much so that her friends would not allow her to drive to the climb. But they let her climb like that. Great friends huh

Several days ago, I became aware that alcohol was a factor, but did not want to be the first to report it, as I learned of this at a meeting where anonymity is respected. While still wrestling with the fact that I may be disrespecting that "guarantee", I have a burning desire to comment on the potentially lethal combination of climbing and booze.

I was about two years without drugs or alcohol about fifteen years ago, when I ran across a high school friend that had become a climber. On our very first trip to the crag, I drank and did not stop until six months ago. During that time, I cannot tell you how often I climbed intoxicated; other than to say nearly every time is not an overstatement. Initially, everyone in my group of climbing buddies smoked weed and drank before, during , and after roping up. Later, I somehow managed to secure climbing partners that became dear friends, but allowed me to practice (to the degree that they were aware) my habits.

Other than the fact that I'm an alcoholic and it's more "natural" to see me drinking than not, the question remains why did I, wanting to climb as well as possible, and knowing that alcohol certainly couldn't enhance physical performance, continue to drink? The answer, I think, is that my level of climbing on any given day was not greatly influenced by the fit of my shoes or whether I had skipped a few meals prior to an anticipated send, but to my psychological state. I have rarely, if ever, climbed to my physical limits. Instead, fear and anxiety are the limiting factors, and alcohol, on at least some occasions, led to less risk aversion and a more aggressive psychological state. Fueled by "courage in a can", I might climb beyond a bolt or piece of pro where I might have taken rest. Rewarded even a few times by "proud" sends I thought I would not have made in my normal, aversion to falling mode, I justified years of "having" to have alcohol to climb.

Note that I think that I may be climbing as well today as I ever have. I have gotten outdoors just once this season, but thoroughly enjoyed an admittedly easy, but trad multi-pitch. I'll also climb a few feet above my last clip now and make this provocative statement: that a new found faith in God, may, just may, lessen my fear of physical injury (especially in what truly are circumstances where risk is minimal and controllable) and allow me to climb closer to my true physical limits.

mike mullendore wrote:I heard that for every 10 feet increase in a fall, your likelihood of surviving decreases by 10%, example a fall of 50 feet results in 50/50 survival chance. According to this she had a 20% chance of survival! mike

Leave the drinking for bouldering. Every time I rope-up the only thing in my system is adrenalin. Now when I'm bouldering thats another story. Sometimes I go bouldering and it reminds me of the lot before a dead show, thats cool to kick back while landing on a cushy pad but, if I went to the crags and saw all these intoxicated dirty hippies on ropes, thats when I find a new place to rope-up.

For some the wilderness is communion enough, for others a day without coffee could mean making a horrid error while in the Throws of a morning yawn. Sometimes it's nice to remember that The universe is nothing more than a pinprick of light when viewed from afar. I am glad that the aforementioned climber is still communing with us.

Just some trauma trivia for the curious: A 50ft (roughly 5 stories) fall does carry a 50% chance of death, but the relationship between height and mortality is not linear.

Ramin Jamshidi wrote:the relationship between height and mortality is not linear.

The first time I ever soloed was when I was intoxicated. Since then I've soloed dozens of routes completely sober.

I just find that interesting--the fact that I "needed" booze to overcome my fear of soloing initially.

--Marc

I've taken 2-3 shots of Yukon Jack before climbing somethng long. I tend to feel like I'm more confident. After 2-3 shots I still feel focussed. It quiets the demonds in my head that tell me I'm really run out or that this nex move is going to be hard and possibly unprotectable. For the most part though, I like climbing sober. Would never even consider climbing drunk though. Nor would I ever climb with someone intoxicated. Bouldering wasted might be kinda fun, especially at night by headlamp. I do like to save the whisky and other party favors for the long hikes out.

Tracy Roach wrote:Bouldering wasted might be kinda fun, especially at night by headlamp.

Tracy Roach wrote:I've taken 2-3 shots of Yukon Jack before climbing somethng long. I tend to feel like I'm more confident. After 2-3 shots I still feel focussed. It quiets the demonds in my head that tell me I'm really run out or that this nex move is going to be hard and possibly unprotectable. For the most part though, I like climbing sober. Would never even consider climbing drunk though. Nor would I ever climb with someone intoxicated. Bouldering wasted might be kinda fun, especially at night by headlamp. I do like to save the whisky and other party favors for the long hikes out.

Not to sound like a straightedger or anything, but I'm reading "Rock Warrior's Way" by Ilgner. Its worthwhile because it talks about controlling your fears, discerning legitimate from limiting fears, and other things about comntrolling the mental aspect of climbing. I'm only just begining, buts its an interesting read and deals with some of the mental issues people are trying to "combat" with booze andd drugs.

I've only bouldered under the influence and I find it just makes me really lazy and not want to put in the effort.

I'm all for recreation. but sane and sober climbing for me, please.

Cheers

Fear is the factor that imposes an artificial roof on our route-sending ability. As I suspect Ilgner points out, there's quite a difference between perceived and "real" risk. The non-climber for example, perceives even safe toproping as dangerous, but the same person, also a novice biker, will overestimate their skills and underestimate the dangers of moderate mountain biking trails. I say this from professional (directing an outdoor recreation program largely utilized by beginners to both sports) and personal experience. I ,myself, will take on much more risk, and have been injured much more frequently on a mountain bike.

Other examples of how fear foments failure or a lack of fear fosters success:
My first climbs were a 80 ft. solos of a 5.5 and a 5.6 crack. I just didn't know any better. If the person who "led" me on these first ascents could do it and thought I could, I had no reference from which to doubt.
Watching absolute beginners, armed with a shiny but paltry rack, gracelessly grunt their way up climbs that I had previously attempted and CHOSE to call for "takes" on, just after placing good gear above me. Observing these individuals (an amazing percentage of which "learned" climbing in the military) always filled me with confounding emotions. Fortunately, I never observed one take a spectacular fall, pulling suspect placements, moments after silently wishing them anything but success.

You gotta love the "military" trained climbers. I was at the garden of the gods and watched two dudes rack up while blasting death metal out of a H2 and wearing matching blackwater shirts(please don't kick my ass if this is you).

Anyway, yes, he does cover legitimate vs limiting fears. Having worked for a climbing program that has been accused of being "too conservative," sometimes, the overthinking of risk management creates limiting fears. Obviously, though, its the lesser of two evils. I'm looking for the balance...nirvana here I come.

The anecdote about soloing 5.5 as a newbie is funny because my first partner had me rapping off single stoppers and things yet I'm much more suspect of everything now eventhough my abilities have progressed. blissful ignorance I guess. I also saw a guy talk his buddy into soloing the eye(5.3 J-tree). His exact quote "Come on, dude, 5.3 means even newbies won't have a problem." and he didn't.