To each his own, but "was" was 200 feet of tat wrapped around a boulder on a sloping ledge that was getting grooved out because of the angle of the pull and that tended to force the rope into said groves or into a crack.
I forgot the other link to hold them together... so I used the one that was on the anchor I removed. The link is there to keep the longer chain from blowing in the wind and marring the rock. I'm trying to do all of the anchors this way now. Thanks for the support.
Great job with the anchors Sam! Everyone really appreciated that rap/belay station. We also used them instead of the rap station below the other summit (East I think) after climbing that really fun .9 (the one with the "varied corner" and "bulge". Is that rap station supposed to be a bad joke?! I've never seen anything quite like it in 19 years of climbing! Bolts on a block that is perched on a ledge and the block is not huge. It's tilted towards the face, but barely. There is a pristine face right above the block that could have been used. I did not get to inspect it up close, the hangers looked new, but homemade (black colored).
We also cleaned up the tat on that summit. There is at least one good bolt up there, however the existing slings were a mess. We did the best we could working with the existing slings which were mostly in good shape.
Beagle: We need to have sustainable anchors on the soft sandstone.
Anchors should: - Be safe - Last a long time - Avoid causing excessive damage to the rock - Not be unnecessarily visible - Encourage positive relationships with land managers and owners
The newer anchor is all of these things, while the older anchor was none of these things.
I think bolting rap stations on climbs that see a lot of traffic is needed. Thanks for you work Sam! Soon as it warms up some I'm planning a trip to climb South Six Shooter with the wife :) Question, when you are bolting out here in the desert do you prefer glue in bolts, or expansion bolts?
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