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> Applied Magnetics (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13)
ID 106121281 ·
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Matthew Fienup
Mar 13, 2008
“Applied Magnetics: Old & New
According to conversations with Tom Adam and others, the original line taken by Chouinard & party up "Applied Magnetics" followed a shallow, intermittent seam all the way to the top of the cliff (shown as the red line on the right in this photo). The route that is now universally climbed steps left from Applied Magnetics and incorporates the protection bolt and face climbing on the top of "Brush Up Your Shakespeare" (shown as the red dots in the middle). Brush Up is actually a variation of Rockoco. Brush Up's line steps boldly right from the alcove below the overhang on Rockoco. After traversing for 30 feet, the line turns upward and climbs delicate face moves past a bolt (shown as the yellow dots on the left).”
According to conversations with Tom Adam and others, the original line taken by Chouinard & party up "Applied Magnetics" followed a shallow, intermittent seam all the way to the top of the cliff (shown as the red line on the right in this photo). The route that is now universally climbed steps left from Applied Magnetics and incorporates the protection bolt and face climbing on the top of "Brush Up Your Shakespeare" (shown as the red dots in the middle). Brush Up is actually a variation of Rockoco. Brush Up's line steps boldly right from the alcove below the overhang on Rockoco. After traversing for 30 feet, the line turns upward and climbs delicate face moves past a bolt (shown as the yellow dots on the left).”
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