Levitation 29, or others?

Have reason to be in Vegas for a day and looking to climb this route with a buddy.

This route is in the sun all day, yes? Will it be too hot in late March on a typical sunny day?

Is 2 hours the typical approach time? I haven't been in that canyon before, so unfortunately no prior knowledge.

Any beta appreciated. We can cherry pick the optimal weather day, but we only have one day to spend in Red Rocks.

Thanks
Andy

ps. Open to other great route ideas. I've done the usual suspects already: Epinephrine, DoWT, PofD, Sour Mash, etc, so looking to do something different and long in the 5.10 to 5.11 range that's fun and not prone to epics since we only have one day.

Late March can be too warm on Eagle Wall, but if you scored a nice cloudy day, it could be optimal.

The first time I hiked to the wall, it took three hours (with no prior knowledge). My second time up there we did the approach in 1:15 but I just about collapsed from exhaustion. Both times was via standard approach: North Fork of Oak Creek to the twin trees and up the ramp.

I don't know about March being too hot. We did the route years ago in mid February and it was cool and perfect for climbing.

The approach took us 3 hours as well (1st time up that creek bed) and I would recommend you start via headlamp well before the sun comes up. It will be a great one day outing!

The first time I went to Red Rocks was late March and it snowed! I kind of doubt it will be too hot, but I suppose it is possible on the other extreme. Wind can also a problem on the Eagle wall. If it's windy on the approach Black Orpheus might be more sheltered? Not sure.

I guess I had today's sunny weather on my mind when I said it could be too warm. Just yesterday in Joshua Tree we sought the shady routes.

Eagle Wall definitely soaks up the sun. But I also I remember almost freezing after summiting Black Orpheus in a rain storm March 6, 2006 and in the wind on Crimson Chrysalis (admittedly north facing) early April of 2005.

Do Drifting instead. It's a much nicer route and you won't bake in the sun all day.

Andy,

I think you will find it too hot on Eagle Wall in late March. However, since the weather can be good at this time of the year, I do have a suggestion.

If you plan to do either Black Orpheus or Levitation 29, you can make the decision in the morning of the climb. The approach is the same for about the first hour. Orpheus is much easier and has a different aspect, so you can tailor your decision based on the weather.

With regards to the Eagle Wall approach, the new book details three approaches. My partner and I took the "4th class" approach, which heads up from the wash at several cairns directly under the wall. This approach traverses right to the IBM boulder, then turns left and directly up to the wall. This approach took about 2 hours at a comfortable pace.

Have you been on X-15 vegastradguy? It's not even in the same league as Levitation man.

Took me 3 hours, too. It's a pretty convoluted hike, and easy to head off in the wrong direction and lose time back-tracking. It was hot when I did it in Mid-Feb.
Thanks for those other recommendations Vegastradguy,
k

Piggybacking the right of epi comment...Lonestar kicks ass?

Another good option if it's really warm is to hit up the relatively short (1-5 pitches, very short pitches on the multipitch routes) but super quality routes on Whiskey Peak in Black Velvet. Only the Good Die Young, Ixtlan, Delicate Sound of Thunder, Our Father, Mazatlan, Perplexity, Cole Essence, etc (of course Triassic if you haven't done it) - tons of good 5.10-11 routes, concentrated, very short approach, no commitment.

AND you can do one or two of them if you want.

Second the Lonestar question - is that thing as good as it sounds? How's the pro? 20 pitches? linkable?

Mid-70s forecast on Thursday (the day we'll be there).

I assume L29 will be too hot. How will Black Orpheus be with those temps? Is it shaded most the way?

We'd love to go to Black Velvet, but we're afraid of rallying the alternate route with a rental car - particularly with only one day available.

Andy

Andy Laakmann wrote:How will Black Orpheus be with those temps? Is it shaded most the way?

Hmm, there seems to be some disagreement on the shade/sun aspect of Black Orpheus.

Given 75 degree temps, will Black Orpheus be a reasonable proposition?

Thanks
Andy

Andy Laakmann wrote:Hmm, there seems to be some disagreement on the shade/sun aspect of Black Orpheus. Given 75 degree temps, will Black Orpheus be a reasonable proposition? Thanks Andy